Summary
I redesigned the limbs for this bow to be a bit more traditional while still accommodating a rubber band. And I added a guard/rest so you don’t get snapped by the band.
Author: Thingiverse
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Recurve Bow v2 3D Print Model
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Lucy van Pelt 3D Print Model
Summary
Lucy van Pelt, from the comic strip Peanuts by Charles Schulz.
Lucy is characterized as a “fussbudget”, crabby, bossy and opinionated girl who bullies other characters in the strip, particularly Linus and Charlie Brown. While she is not exactly cold-hearted, she can be quite antagonistic, often playing the villain role in a number of stories
The model is in proportion to my Charlie Brown model:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2510789
No supports are required. If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.
The model is 140mm tall.
Enjoy!
Print Settings
Printer:
FlashForge Creator X Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
.2mm Infill:
10% Notes:
See below for helpful printing and assembly tips.Building the model
Colors (there are no multiple printed pieces)
Black:
l_hair_right
l_hair_left
l_eyebrows
l_eyes
l_mouth
l_shoes_middle
..
Beige or Flesh:
l_head_top
l_head_bottom
l_arm_left
l_arm_right
l_legs
..
White:
l_shoes_front
l_shoes_back
..
Blue:
l_dress
l_shoulder_right
l_shoulder_left
l_socks
..
Any color (hidden pieces)
l_pins
.. Printing and assembly tips
Printing tips
1-As with most of my models, no supports are required.
2-Be sure to clean any first layer squish if you have any problem joining parts. The parts should fit nicely when printed cleanly or with a slight first layer squish.
3-I did not require any rafts or brims for any of the parts.
..
Assembly tips:
1-The eyebrows are small and print well but if for some reason you have an issue inserting them into the head (over-extrusion or a squish that cannot be cleaned) simply flip them over and put them in with the flat side facing out.
2-The left/right eyes are interchangeable. There is an up/down positioning of each eye. If it does not look right when inserted just rotate the eye piece for a better fit.
3-The left/right shoulders look similar but are slightly different, so take care when connecting them to the dress.
4-The leg holes in the dress should be positioned toward the back.
5-The left/right shoe parts are not interchangeable but are easy to distinguish which is left and right.
5-Refer to the assembly diagram for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued. -
Reaper’s Hellfire Shotguns 3D Print Model
Summary
This is Reapers Hellfire Shotguns from the game Overwatch modelled using Fusion 360. It is not scaled properly and requires manual scaling. -
Magpul MOE Slot Bolt 3D Print Model
Summary
Bolt to attach accessories to Magpul MOE Slot hand guard -
HyperCube XY LM8UU Bearing Clamp With Skull 3D Print Model
Summary
Added a nice skull on the Hypercube XY bearing clamp
Print Settings
Printer:
Homemade Printer Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
100 -
Santa & Gingerbread Man 3D Print Model
Summary
Santa Claus with Gingerbread Man 3D printed decoration for Christmas -
Spool Holder V2 – Quick Change 2020 Edition 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a remix of “New Prusa i3 MK1 & MK2 Spool Holder V2 – Quick Change” (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1768975) by IsmaelPR1 (https://www.thingiverse.com/IsmaelPR1/about).
I really liked his design, and am printing one for my Prusa MK2S, but I wanted a matching holder for my Tevo Tarantula. I remixed this so the holder can hang on a 2020 extrusion. There’s a provision for M4 screws to mount it to the back of the extrusion.
PLEASE NOTE: This was remixed from his 90mm holder. For the 140mm rollers and accessories, please visit his thing.
I have included IsmaelPR1’s 90 mm rollers and m8 rods, though I used 5/16″ bolts for mine.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.2mm Layer Height Infill:
none Notes:
Easy print. Print the spools as shown. For more details visit the original thing at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1768975
Post-Printing
Simple Install
Used 608 bearings and 5/16″ bolts that I had in my shop. clamp it on to the top of your rig and add a couple of m4 bolts and T-nuts. That’s it!
Happy Printing! -
Samsung Microwave handle bracket 3D Print Model
Summary
My samsung microwave handle broke while opening the door. the inside bracket, which is part of the interior door panel, where the screw goes is super flimsy. this slips right over the original screw hole and you can use the original screw to secure it.
printed in ABS
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Wanhao Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.2 Infill:
100% -
Anycubic prusa i3 – left side motor fan support 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a 40mm fan support for the extruder motor.
With this design you can cool the motor and keep the hotend protected from the fan air flow.
You can screw the fan with the support to the motor (with M3 bolts) or you can use neodymium magnet (4mmx2mm) and insert them in the holes. This second option offer a better access to the filament when you have to change it.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
20-30% -
Geeetech i3 Pro B LCD holder 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a modification of original Prusa LCD holder for Geeetech i3 Pro B (acrylic). While original Prusa has LCD mounted on front of the printer on two rods, i3 Pro B has LCD mounted on top of the printer. I moved LCD to the front as well and modified LCD holder to fit on two layers of 8mm acrylic there.
LCD supports (A and B) has been modified to fit i3 Pro B.
LCD cover and LCD knob is the same as original Prusa https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/tree/MK2/Printed-Parts/stl
LCD cable holders are resized to fit threaded rod Geeetech has (mine on i3 has 9.5mm outside diameter, original Prusa use 10mm rods).
The assembly is the same as original -http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/6.+LCD+assembly/300
The rotary encoder and reset button on i3 are too long, it’s necessary to cut reset button by about 5mm and encoder rod by about 7mm so it fits to LCD cover. Measure twice before cutting, the length might depend on which Chinese clone you have.
Print Settings
Printer:
Geeetech i3 Pro B Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
20% Notes:
printed in PETG -
India Map Puzzle 3D Print Model
Summary
Just a puzzle of the India Map, illustrating the states/regions of the country.
Provided complete stl (not tested but should be fine).
Check out the World Map Puzzle here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412659
Check more designs here: http://www.thingiverse.com/2c2know/designs -
Ferris Wheel with Platforms (24cm diameter) 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a 24cm-diameter ferris wheel. It is designed to sit in a fixed position, and it has 60 platforms (30 on each side), each 2.5cm square. The platforms can be used to put figurines or anything else that can fit.
There are four distinct types of pieces. You need 4 each of the two orientations of the quarter wheel, and 1 each of the stand, male wheel connector, and female wheel connector.
Post-Printing
The included pieces are sufficient to make the ferris wheel stand up on its own. However, to increase the stability, I added small pieces of velcro to the flat sides of the wheel pieces. I also made room for you to insert a 1/2-inch ceramic magnet into the wheel connector to increase the connecting force and make the two pieces less likely to break apart.
How I Designed This
I designed all of the parts using FreeCAD. I am grateful to the FreeCAD community for their help in learning how to use their wonderful software. -
Plain Caliburn Magwell 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a Caliburn magwell section without any words, so you can add your own words or markings there.
*You might notice the letter outlines in the preview but it shouldn’t show up in the print, toggle Thingview to confirm. -
Naza Mount for QAV 180mm quadcopter 3D Print Model
Summary
An organised mount for Naza with the new version PMU/LED combo. Also has a provision for two 1.65mm brass power rails in place of a power distribution board as well as a camera mount for an Eachine MC-02 AIO camera. You will need 300mm of brass for the power rails, 4 m3x10-12mm bolts, naza m lite or v2 with the combined PMU/LED and an mc 02 camera or similar.
This was designed on the clone frame available from ebay for around 10USD. When built with 2403 2300kv motors, FVT little bee 20a esc’s and a 1300mah 3s 30c pack you can expect flight times between 6 and 10 minutes.
Print Settings
Printer:
Tronxy a3 Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
~.08 Infill:
10-100% Notes:
This is a fairly easy print, no special settings required aside from support for a couple of sections which could be cut out post printing if you choose. The PMU is a very tight fit and is intended to have a clear diffuser between it and the frame. The PMU’s plastic case and heat shrink must be removed for it to be installed. A dab of rubber cement or something similar will be required to keep the PMU and FC in place. All wires can be run under the FC and attached to the rails for a very clean install.
Post-Printing
The longitudinal holes for the power rails will likely need reaming as they are designed with very tight tolerances for a friction fit. -
24 LED Neopixel Glasses for Arduino nano 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a remix of 4 existing files in order to make a pair of self contained Neopixel glasses using two 24 LED Neopixel rings, and an Arduino Nano processor.
I tried to hide the wiring inside the frames as much as possible, the bridge between the two rings is hollow for that purpose. Unfortunately one side is heavy, so I added an elastic to the back to keep the glasses on securely.
If you decide to use a different processor, you can mirror the left arm and add what you need instead of trying to remove the box on the right arm used to house the Arduino Nano.
Needed to build:
3D printed parts, – Print one -Glasses new, one left arm, one right arm, and 2 pins
2x 24 LED Neopixel rings- by Adafruit or on Ebay
1 foot – 3 conductor ribbon cable
1/8 inch drill – to clean out the holes in the arm for the arduino wires
3/16 inch drill – to clean out the holes for the arm pins
7.2v LI battery, or a battery of your choice that will run the processor and LEDs (I used 2 3.7v 180mah batteries in series)
connector for the battery
Nailfile emery board – to sand the edges that will be close to the face, and to round the pins so they are easier to move.
soldering iron
hot glue gun
Arduino Nano with no pins.
You will also need to program the Arduino Nano with the code. You will need the Adafruit_NeoPixel library. I reduced the brightness in the code so that you don’t burn out the Arduino 5v regulator. They are still bright enough. Solder the tx wire to pin D3.
The code is from Adafruit.
Credit: Glasses frame:
Harry Potter Glasses – with hinges
by sivar2311, published May 26, 2013
Arduino holder:
Arduino Nano Mount
by tjbn, published May 22, 2017
Pins:
Pin Connectors V3
by emmett, published Nov 5, 2012
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8 Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.15 Infill:
35% Notes:
I used support only when touching the buildplate for the Glasses rings, This makes it easier to use the holes for the arms
The arms need support everywhere. I| use ZigZag, 5mm support line distance. -
Pi-Zor: a bitcoin cold wallet 3D Print Model
Summary
The is a case for the Raspberry Pi that is intended to be used as a Bitcoin hardware cold wallet. Note that this will never be as secure as a wallet using a secure element, like a Ledger Nano. The project’s namesake, the Trezor, doesn’t have a secure element, but is still more secure since its designed by security minded professionals, rather than a DIY project using a Pi Zero. The plus side, is you build it yourself so you know what’s in there, and if you take precautions, then you can probably keep this secure.
See my first explorations into this concept here: http://www.allaboutjake.com/pi-offline-crypto-wallet/
I am currently working on software for the Pi to expose an Electrum wallet on the Pi using the a menuing system on the LCD. This will include the signing of transactions using the QR codes and the PiCamera for input and the LCD for output.
If you find this useful, or you’d like to donate to the future development of this system, send some satoshi to the following address: 1PqvzEtDcboQYF2yhMvcdzK3J6uj7SMtQQ
Bill of materials
Raspberry Pi Zero (I’m using a W for development, but a non-W is better for a cold wallet)
1.44 ST7735 based LCD: http://r.ebay.com/b7ZpxI
5-Way Tactile Switch: http://r.ebay.com/U5YHC6
5MP Pi Camera: http://r.ebay.com/igagFy
Screws (M2.5×12 for the outside, M2.5×4 for the Pi inside.)
How I Designed This
I used OnShape to develop the case. Its kind of a tight fit, but the case does close.
The “middle plate” part is an unintended consequence of not having the right screws. I’m looking to get some M2x2 waver head screws for mounting the parts to the case.
I chose the 128×128 LCD specifically because it was 30mm wide and had more pixels than OLED displays used by other projects. (see http://hackaday.io/project/9564-rpi-zero-wifi-enabled-hardware-password-manager for one such project that uses OLED). More pixels are desirable for QRCode bandwidth.Future Possibilities
Some ideas on how this may evolve:
A PCB “bonnet” that holds the LCD, and 5-way switch, and maybe some extra hardware
A real-time clock module to remember the time
A lipo battery? (Its already pretty tight in there, not sure if I can fit it without making the case bigger)
Move to buttons (similar to http://hackaday.io/project/9564-rpi-zero-wifi-enabled-hardware-password-manager). The 5-way switch was quick and easy, but I think buttons would be better.
Inspiration
Things that inspired this project, but not specifically a remix
The initial inspiration for this project was the awful “Taken 3” movie where Liam Neeson uses a fictional device to download the GPS history from a car. (I don’t recommend this movie). See the frame cap below to see the device.
Other projects to make a Pi Zero-sized user interface to the Pi Zero include:
http://hackaday.io/project/9564-rpi-zero-wifi-enabled-hardware-password-manager
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193350
Many GameBoy-like systems like PiGrrl, etc.I do have a very particular set of skills, skills I have acquired over a very long career.
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Malayan M180 Carriage MK3 3D Print Model
Summary
This is my MK3 carriage for a single extruder for the Malayan M180.
I removed the left hand extruder, except for the fan, and thirmister (for some reason it will not work if you remove this) and used the right hand heating block and the filament guide.
You will also need, a 60mm long hot end extruder guide, and a length of aluminum bar 90mm long by 4mm thick. This is the heat sink and mount for the hot end extruder. Drilled and tapped in the centre to M6 with two 6mm mounting holes to attach to the carriage.
I used some M4 brass threaded inserts but you could use nuts and bolts.
I also use M3 inserts to mount the fan.
You will have to adjust the Z axis stop sensor to level the bed, as the heating block protrudes slightly than on the original carriage.
For the filament drive I used a metal Bowden type, which is cheaply available on EBay etc.
and used the left hand fan to cool the stepper motor. This was then fitted to the printer casing above the filament spool, using some scrap aluminum angle.
The whole thing took about 4hrs to complete and set up but the results are worth it.
It is much easier to load filament, the prints are great and I can now reach higher temperatures.
Print Settings
Printer:
Malyan M180 Rafts:
Yes Supports:
Yes Resolution:
High Infill:
50% Notes:
Takes about 17hrs to print -
East3D Gecko Low-Profile Front Panel Screen Bezel 3D Print Model
Summary
It is a low profile screen bezel designed for East3D Gecko. -
mk8 3D Print Model
Summary
material utilizado PLA, funciona perfecto, tornillo M3 50mm de largo, 4 tuercas M3, 4 arandelas, 2 resortes, ruleman, engranaje de bronce, nema 17, conector neumático Ø4mm con rosca de M5
Print Settings
Printer:
lazimaker Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.3 Infill:
20% -
Tissue Holder 1.0 3D Print Model
Summary
This tissue jar is able to take a toilet paper and dispense it as tissues. This will save you lots of money. It’s designed to fit some of the biggest toilet paper rolls, so it shouldn’t matter what brand/ size you use. The lid is held on with a rubber band. You can print this without any support. That being said I printed the lid top up and used support to get the desired print finish on top. I had to use supports in this case.
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.16mm Infill:
10% Notes:
At a 60mm/s speed using Cura it takes about 18 hours for the jar and 6 hours for the lid. -
Customizable Curtain Rod Hanger / Wall Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a customizable curtain rod hanger. There are a couple other hangers around, but i wanted one that i could adjust as needed.
Enjoy! -
Athlon argos shim 3D Print Model
Summary
Zero stop shim for athlon athlon argos btr 6-24×50 ffp. they go under the scope cap, shim from .20″ to .38″ -
Sand Bottle Holder for Clickgear Golf Cart 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a much improved rework of www.thingiverse.com/thing:1718939. It is designed to hold the large sand bottles that a lot of courses use on carts but attaches to the attachment points on a Clickgear push cart. My original design just wasn’t strong enough to stand up to the weight of a full sand bottle and the rigors of bouncing over the ground. This needs to be printed in a strong material – I used Polycarbonate and previously used Nylon, both of which are strong enough (and both can be challenging to print). I prefer the PC. In PC this is plenty strong and has been in use on my cart for quite a while with no problems. The picture also shows the assembly – all the pins are press fit and the design requires no other hardware.
Print Settings
Printer:
Flashforge Creator Pro Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Doesn’t Matter Notes:
Print in a strong material like Polycarbonate -
Full Bowden suite Infitary M508 + Bltouch 3D Print Model
Summary
This includes V6 E3D hotend mount, extruder mount and bltouch mount that has been calibrated for hotend height (depends on the hotend you bought, may need further customisation for bltouch mount)
Requires redrilling block for X endstop to match the hotend holder (Used the Anet A8 upgrade by Nicolaferrara82)
The extruder mount doesnt use screws, just sits comfortably between a 3 points on top of “left” (looking straight at it – See pictures) above Motherboard. Can be tightened in design, but I like that it isn’t that snug. You will put it under wing of Z axis top rod holder then slot in place.
Print extuder mount with supports! -
Apache Camper (pop up) door turn button 3D Print Model
Summary
This is door turn button (the piece that you turn down to keep the top door linked to the bottom door once the camper is up).
It is my first design and probably a little rough but it works.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Up! Printer:
Up Mini
Post-Printing
You’ll need to remove the infill or not. Works just as fine. -
Lazy Suzan Organizer 3D Print Model
Summary
A Lazy Suzan Organizer. The pictures are pretty self explanatory.
I am open to design suggestions. For example, I was considering making a stack-able version of the inner wedge.
Enjoy!
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Rostock Printer:
Rostock MAX V2 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
Nozzle – 0.4 Layer – 0.2 Infill:
50% Notes:
Requires a fairly large print bed. The printer requires at least a 215 mm bed. -
Necklace – Double deltas 3D Print Model
Summary
http://horizonlab.co/2017/09/01/necklace-double-deltas/ -
Nerdhaus Poker Chip 3D Print Model
Summary
A parameterized poker chip, with a large symbol embossed in the center and a smaller symbol repeated around the edge.
Download the SCAD file and use a dingbat font for a larger selection of symbols — we use that technique to generate quick and dirty game tokens for RPGs and board games, tool. -
LED, battery, switch clip-on light 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a battery holder for a 9-volt battery with a switch and LEDs to light up a Monoprice Select Mini 3D printer. To complete the light, you’ll need:
LED strip lights
Switch
Battery connector
9v battery
The hole for the switch may need to be resized to match the size your switch.
Once put together, just slide it onto the end of the Z-axis arm, and switch it on. Using a battery, there’s no need to tap into any other wires. -
Double badge holder 3D Print Model
Summary
Yet another badge holder. It’s the vanilla “RFID badge holder” design, but not as cool as https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1869475 which prints with bed-up supports. Mine wants needs internal supports, which mean you should get real friendly with your slicer.
Having done that, the supports peel out and leave an awesome badge holder. It is roomier, letting me use both an RFID card and a second plastic identity card. The edges are nicely rounded, it comes off very smooth with no post-processing required. -
Foot for V-Groove Aluminum Extrusion 3D Print Model
Summary
I made this so that I could have little footies on my 2020 aluminum extrusions I bought from Inventables -
Dragon 3D Print Model
Summary
Dragon, sculpted on Zbrush, the blue render was done with the 200K poly model. There was a 1M poly model but the file was too large (80mb). -
Presto Pegasus Symmetry R5 part: Shock-proof GoPro Session Mount (V2) 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a 3D printing file for Presto Pegasus Symmetry R5’s accessory part: Shock-proof GoPro Session Actioncam mount. (Fits both GoPro Session & GoPro 5 Session)
This is not a original stock design but optimised for TPU printing (designed by Symmetry R5 pilot C.N. OH aka Ryan FPV). It has a shock-proof feature which will protect your GoPro Session even more. 20mm spacer may be needed to screw the session mount tightly.
This GoPro mount is compatible with Presto Pegasus Symmetry series frames.
It is mounted with only two M3 screws on Symmetry R5 frame. No strap is required.
Recommended to print with TPU with 100% scale.
This file is free to use except for commercial use.
This file is designed/provided by Ryan FPV -
608ZZ rubber or tire 3D Print Model
Summary
When you need transform a 608zz bearing into a tire or simply add to it some rubber for 3d carriage application or make the bearing can roll over an alluminium profile, you can use this thing. It’s a rubber with the dimmensions of the 608 bearing. You can use the solid work model to modify it in accordance to your need.
IMPORTANT: You must use flexible filament.
Remember for flex fil:
print SLOW speed (no more 30mm/s)
No retract
Enjoy it!
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Doesn’t Matter Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
40% -
Cable Carrier 3D Print Model
Summary
Common use snap-fit cable carrier with enclosed top.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
No Supports:
Doesn’t Matter -
MPCNC EndStop Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
I bought physical switch endstops and didn’t like any of the existing versions. So I made my own from scratch. The End Stops sit snuggly into the trays using pegs to hold them straight. You could drop a tab of hot glue to hold VERY securely if you like.
I used this End Stop
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
.15 Infill:
20% Notes:
I had to use supports at first, because I did not pay any attention to how it might need to be printed. If you have good cooling and are an overhang master, maybe you can go without. If you do use supports, I had them stood away from the model by .2 mm so they were easy to detatch
Post-PrintingY-Axis Top
X-Axis Top
Bottom Ring for both
How I Designed This
Used Fusion 360
This uses nuts and bolts to assemble, used #6 thread in my case because it’s what I had. -
Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S Light Bracket 3D Print Model
Summary
I designed this light bar bracket in Fusion 360 for my i3 MK2S. it its a nice tight fit over the plastic end caps of the light bar but moves more freely once over the extruded aluminum. The light bar used is the following: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-11-8-in-Plug-in-Under-Cabinet-LED-Light-Bar/1000033647
The light is activated by waving your hand underneath. It is also dimmable if you hold your hand under the sensor. Once the desired brightness is achieved, move your hand.
Print Settings
Printer:
Reality CR10 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.3 mm Infill:
25% -
SmartExtruder Cover (Not SmartExtruder+) 3D Print Model
Summary
I own two original SmartExtruders and one SmartExtruder+. I’ve figured out the SmartExtruder+ is great because and only because it’s held on by screws instead of clips. They are about the same as far as performance goes, but it’s nice to have more extruders dedicate for different nozzle diameters.
Anyway, anyone who owns one of these 5th Gens or had owned one would understand the frustrations of the clip-on extruder covers. Mine are holding on to dear life by my extruder holder or painters’ tape, since it’s readily available.
The part is self explanatory so there are little words to say about this part, other than I’ve put in about 2 weeks of work on this, but it’s not quite right yet. Measurements were taken and modeled with and without the back-cover for assembly for accuracy, before and after printing. Printed parts were checked under a microscope then the model was adjusted accordingly. Well, I hadn’t finished it yet, but it’s roughly 90% accurate.
Other work got in the way and I hadn’t worked on this for a couple months and decided to release this to all of you. If it works for you, GREAT! If it doesn’t, I hope someone can finish it, make improvements and share it.
It’s best to print this at 0.3mm resolution and print it solid. 0.2mm is better but that’s a lot of time spent for an incomplete part that may or may not work. There aren’t any features there that require 0.2mm resolution. 0.4mm prints faster but I feel it’s not fine enough for this application.
I’ve printed only PLA but it hasn’t quite fit JUST right so I have no idea what will happen at the hot-end.
Enjoy.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
MakerBot Printer:
MakerBot Replicator (5th Generation) Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.3mm Infill:
50%+ -
Samsung S6 Arm band case (with phone case) 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a arm case for the Samsung Galaxy s6 (with an external case). It has 4 loops to attach elastic so that it can be worn on the arm.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.4 nozzle, 0.20 layer Infill:
20% Notes:
Added Brim for adhesion -
Banana Page Tracker 3D Print Model
Summary
add a banana on the page tracker so that i look more interesting 🙂 i also emboss name on the page tracker for customization. -
Dipole antenna holder 3D Print Model
Summary
I have tried securing dipole antennas to furniture forever. This solves that problem. It’s designed to adhere to 3M Command large picture hanging strips (http://bit.ly/2iEa3NP). -
E-Step Calibration Jig (3mm filament) 3D Print Model
Summary
Trying to hold calipers or a ruler next to my filament while marking it for E-Step Calibration isn’t always easy, especially if your printer is in an enclosure. This jig has 2 notches. The lower notch is at 100mm the upper notch is at 120mm. Snap the filament channel onto the filament and lower the jig until it touches the top of the extruder. Then use a fine point marker to mark inside the V slots as shown in the photo. This jig requires your printer to be reasonably dialed in. You can use calipers to inspect the printed part for accuracy. I have found this tool to be quite handy.
E-Step calibration guides can be found in many places, I follow this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide#Measure
This is designed to be printed with the filament channel facing downward and a wide brim. The model was also designed to print with a .5mm nozzle but should print fine with smaller nozzles. The brim secures it to the build platform. Remove the brim after printing. See photos for usage.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
LulzBot Printer:
TAZ 6 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.2 mm Infill:
none Notes:
This is designed to be printed with the filament channel facing downward and a wide brim. The model was also designed to print with a .5mm nozzle but should print fine with smaller nozzles. The brim secures it to the build platform. Remove the brim after printing. See photos for usage. -
Wanhao d7 new limit switch 3D print model 3D Print Model
Summary
Wanhao d7 new limit switch 3D print model.
I have created this mount to install a mechanical end stroke instead of the optical one.
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/wanhao-d7-new-limit-switch -
BitX40 Ergonomic Enclosure 3D Print Model
Summary
This is yet another enclosure for VU2ESE Ashar Farhan’s BitX40 transceiver. It’s different from other boxes because it’s ergonomically more efficient–the volume and tuning dials are positioned for ease of use and the speaker is tilted up towards the operator’s head. It’s small and has a much larger heat sink to accommodate 100% duty cycle transmissions that digital modes require.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
Normal or Optimal (.20 or .15mm) Infill:
20% Notes:
These models have supports built-in where required and can be easily knocked out after printing. I’ve printed these parts successfully in PLA and PET.
Post-Printing
Parts & Assembly
The model is composed two halves for the case: a base that holds the circuit board and the bottom feet using M3 screws and a top. There are also four chamfered holes on the base that attach the top case using M3 flat head screws. The base is also marked “FRONT” and “BACK” for proper positioning of the top case and the board. The bottom feet can additionally be fitted with silicone rubber feet.
The volume on/off pot and tuning pot that come in the BitX40 kit will fit but their shafts require trimming so the vol and tuning knobs will fit. The Vol knob is nylon and can be trimmed using a knife, but I had to use a Dremel grinder to cut down and dress the shaft of the Tuning pot. You should cut the length of the shaft to about 15mm and flatten about 10mm of that. Use caution to ensure that when you are cutting and grinding that you don’t burn out the bearings of the pot. Alternatively, you can use a pot from your own junk box.
The Raduino slides into a slot at the bottom. My design is meant to allow it to be affixed to the inside of the top case with small self-tapping screws, but when I printed it in blue translucent PET, there was insufficient area to support screws, so I ended up hot gluing the LCD module to the case and using screwed standoffs between the LCD and the Arduino modules to hold them in place.
You can also use hot glue to fix the a 65mm dia. speaker over the grille area. Mine was recovered from an old clock radio.
Because I intend to use my BitX40 on JT-65 and WinLink, I needed to replace the small heatsink over the final TX transistor with one that would allow it to handle the 100% duty cycle that digital modes usually demand. I bought a “DIY Cooler Aluminum Heatsink Heat Sink Chip 1002510mm for IC LED Power Transistor” at Aliexpress. I fastened it to the box with small nylon zip ties.
In his BitX40 instructions, Farhan mentions that you can use one of the small earphone style audio jacks for headphones, so that when you plug in the headphones it cuts out the speaker, but leaves out specific instructions “as an exercise to you”. I found a circuit that worked for me. -
Laser Mount for Prusa i3 Rework X Carriage 3D Print Model
Summary
Mount for Laser (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/500mw-405NM-focusing-blue-purple-laser-module-engraving-with-TTL-control-laser-tube-diode-protective-googles/32562052620.html)
Compatible with the X Carriage from the Prusa i3 Rework – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616
Print Settings
Supports:
No Infill:
10% -
Twist Off Bottle Opener 3D Print Model
Summary
Modeled in tinkercad. SImple design but it works; wife had a hard time opening bottles. Took a few tries to get the ID right on the grip. Have fun. -
Sliding Window Latch 3D Print Model
Summary
replacement part. Assembly required.
Post-Printing
Assembly
You will need:
(1) compression spring coil 1/4″ X 0.038″
(1) slotted spring pin 1/8″
(2) screw
(1) hot glue or else
1- place the finger part over the vice jaws, that are slightly open
2- push firmly the slotted spring pin into the hole, and hit it with an hammer to push it in place (centered)
3- I use UV resin to stick the spring coil onto the finger. Hot glue should work to.
4- Press the spring coil with the base, then engage the slotted spring pin.
5- screw the assembly in place and enjoy having a safer home! 🙂
How I Designed This
Design with Autodesk Inventor. -
Replacement Oven Dial Knob 3D Print Model
Summary
I get really attached to my kitchen items. Each one has been carefully chosen at the time of purchase to fulfill a specific purpose and my heart breaks when, after decades of use, a small part either disappears or just craps out, rendering the whole thing unusable.
Well, I’m not gonna let that happen to my beloved Toastmaster toaster oven, doggone it! So, the timer knob popped off and never really fit on again. So, I pulled out the calipers, dusted off the ol’ 3D printer and came up with this thing. Fits perfectly. Lovely, even.
If you found this useful, it would bring me great joy to see your work – so be sure to share. 🙂
Or, better yet, please feel free to dump a bitcoin or two here (you can spare a bitcoin, can’t ya?):
1Py3TUeR8noBN2giHyFV1GfB6x3Kh2WEVv
… include a note to the effect of “Hi 3E8, thanks for the Toastmaster dial thing… my life is infinitely better on account of it and please accept this paltry amount in gratitude”.
You’re welcome! (in advance) 😀
Also, feel free to peruse my other submissions which are almost as varied as they are many:
http://www.thingiverse.com/3E8/designs
Enjoy! -
FT Simple Soarer Custom Motor Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
Custom motor mount for the Simple Soarer. This gives the Simple Soarer a much more aerodynamic front end.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
This has a 5 degree down tilt built in so make sure you put it with the motor wire hole on the top.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No Supports:
No Infill:
15% -
Case for Chorus RF Laptimer 3D Print Model
Summary
https://youtu.be/UfGwfbJc-js
Videotutorial completo del montaje de un cuentavueltas basado en el proyecto Chorus RF Laptimer de voroshkov, con la PCB de J.R.Reis. Cuentavueltas basado en la lectura del vtx que llevamos en nuestros drones. Material necesario, soldaduras, programación de arduino, configuración del modulo bluethoot, uso de la aplicación EXCLUSIVA para android y test del proyecto. No se detalla el esquema electrónico dando por hecho que trabajaremos sobre una PCB específica. De momento solo funciona con ANDROID. Se están buscando desarrolladores para iOS.
ACLARACIÓN DEL MONTAJE: El par de pines que hay al lado del buzzer son para cerrar/abrir (mediante jumper) la alimentación hacia los siguientes módulos desde el que tiene la batería. El modulo que queda a la izquierda del grupo debe de tener puenteado con un jumper los pines TX y RX ( del grupo de 4 pines abajo izquierda)
Si tenéis alguna duda, por favor hacérmelo saber en los comentarios del vídeo. Entre todos podemos aportar para hacer mas completo este videotutorial
HC-06
COMANDOS PARA EL MODULO BLUETHOOT (desde arduino IDE)
AT+BAUD8 – cambia el baud rate a 115200
AT+NAMEnombreelegido – sustituye “nombreelegido” por el nombre que quieras poner
AT+PINxxxx – sustituye “xxxx” por el PIN numérico que elijas
HC-05
Adaptador TTL: https://goo.gl/2RCeD2
solo cuatro cables necesarios; RX, TX, +5V y GND
(TX-RX cruzados)
Hay que conseguir entrar en el modo AT2 (pulsar el boton al conectar al TTL y soltar) parpadeo de led 1/seg
Ventana de comandos a 38400 baudios (Ambos NL & CR)
Introducimos:
AT+UART=115200,1,0
AT+NAME=NOMBRE
el pin será 1234
Con esa configuración funcionan perfectamente
Partir siempre de la configuración original
MATERIAL:
RX5808: https://goo.gl/f3nrkt
Arduino: https://goo.gl/SWZoyv
Modulo Bluethoot HC-06: https://goo.gl/yj4M19
Buzzer activo: https://goo.gl/E1DFay
BEC regulable. https://goo.gl/VhiGfR
Pines M-H 2.54: https://goo.gl/dcyU1B
HERRAMIENTAS
SOLDADOR: https://goo.gl/zMaVgp
BASE SILICONA: https://goo.gl/uBBGxT
FTDI: https://goo.gl/uZa7et
LINKS:
Proyecto original: https://github.com/voroshkov/Chorus-RF-Laptimer
Proyecto arduino (.zip): click en “clone or download”
IDE arduino: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
APK android: https://github.com/voroshkov/Chorus-RF-Laptimer/blob/master/Android/ChorusRFLaptimer/app/ChorusRFLaptimer-release.apk
APK Maikel rf laptimer: próximamente…
Canal JLO fpv: https://goo.gl/t6yq5Q
Grupo de TELEGRAM: https://goo.gl/RDRACS
Comunidad de Facebook: https://goo.gl/qFVj8A
Instagram: https://goo.gl/1KCvPR
Print Settings
Printer:
STEEL PRUSA i3 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
0,2 Infill:
40% -
game of thrones crossbow 3D Print Model
Summary
It’s a replica of the crossbow in
Season 7 episode 4 of the game series of thrones
The total dimensions are: length / 261.731mm, width / 242.832, height121.001.they can rotate 360 degrees, crossbow arms can close exactly as in serial
DO NOT FORGET TO VIEW AND RESTORE THE PROJECTS FROM MY PROFILE
have fun
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
MakerBot Printer:
MakerBot Replicator+ Supports:
No -
TDS Airsoft google cooling fan adapter 3D Print Model
Summary
An adapter for a standard 3d printer blower fan to two goggle mounts to immediately defog your goggles (or cool anything that needs cooling!)
requires .25in flexible tubing, a blower fan, and zipties
This is a little bit of a work in progress, the airblade in the goggle side probably needs adjusting be sure to leave me some feedback!
Like and Follow TDS Airsoft on Facebook for more stuff like this! -
30.5 X 30.5 MM Mount for FS-iA6 Reciever w/ Antenna Tubes 3D Print Model
Summary
Receiver mount and antenna tubes for FlySky i6 Receiver, the FS-iA6. Designed to fit on the 30.5 X 30.5MM Mounting standard. I printed the antenna tubes one at a time vertically with 6 lines of raft, and then tapered the ends with sandpaper by hand for a tight fit into the base. Recommend 100% infill. .20mm layer height. -
Dinosaur 3D Print Model
Summary
A simplistic dinosaur model capable of standing on its own. This is a good model for painting or practicing post production tactics, due to its relative simplicity.
Print Settings
Printer:
Monoprice Mini Rafts:
Yes Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.06 Infill:
30% Notes:
It is suggested to print this on its side for optimal results
Post-PrintingHow I Designed This
Blender
I designed this in blender with the aide of a mirror modifier, and a subdivision surface at the end to smooth things over. -
Orc Skull Death Marker 3D Print Model
Summary
On a 25mm base for tabletop gaming, replace an orc miniature with this when the creature hits 0 hp. It’s dead not prone. -
Little hose support 3D Print Model
Summary
I designed this to hang my garden hose out of the ground.
I has 4 little hooks bended up and two holes for screws.
Printed with PLA in my QIDI printer, took about an hour and I didn’t need any support.
Including the source files if anyone wants to modify it.
Print Settings
Printer:
Qidi Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No
How I Designed This
Using 3D Studio Max 2015 -
Headphone holder 3D Print Model
Summary
Headphone holder, using a corkboard for mounting 🙂
it’s one of those odd things that probably won’t do most people any good but i love it.
Print Settings
Printer:
Monoprice mini v2 Rafts:
No Supports:
Doesn’t Matter Infill:
20% -
Base with Name Plates 3D Print Model
Summary
Base is designed at 62% scale. So trophy will need to be printed at 62% scale and base at 100%.
Link to Name Plates: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cfAT1RvVRy2-name-plates. I printed the name plates upside down at .1 and issues a color change at .7. Name plates should press-fit to allow removal of the blanks.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.20 Infill:
10% -
Epiquad 210x – arm protectors 3D Print Model
Summary
The rock solid carbon fiber plates of the Epiquad can handle a lot, but I like a bit of protection for indoor flying. So I created these arm protectors voor de 210x version.
I printed this with TPU with at least 50% infill and 3 lines for wall. This is how you get a nice bumper that can handle some scratches from concrete.
EpiQuad 210x Low Rider Edition – https://droneracingparts.nl/epiquad210x
Also check my other protectors and mounts for the EpiQuad.
Print Settings
Printer:
Prima Creator P120 Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2 Infill:50%
Notes:
I really like the zigzag supports of Cura. With these you can remove the support underneath the edge, in one simple move. -
Wanhao Duplicator 4x Filament Alignment Bracket 3D Print Model
Summary
Filament alignment bracket to fit Wanhao Duplicator 4x -
Caliper adapter to measure wider objects 3D Print Model
Summary
To measure a steel wire. Print 2.
Print Settings
Printer:
Tevo tarantula Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2-0.25 Infill:
20% -
SecKC Cotcha Case 3D Print Model
Summary
Case for SecKC Cotcha for ESP8266 & SSD1306 (multicolor). See more at SecKC.org
Print Settings
Printer:
Monoprice MP Select Mini Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.02 Infill:
10% Notes:
Bed 55
Nozzle 195
PLA 1.71mm
102% -
Magic chef replacement ice bucket 3D Print Model
Summary
Replacement ice “bucket” for my magic chef ice maker. Mine cracked and started leaking rusty water from the motor and the alternative is $20-30 (37 from Amazon/prime)
Not quite at the final design, but will update when I am. Designed it as two parts because it’s just beyond a 200mm bed. The long this party was the easiest to cut off and make assemblable. Just bolt with a 40(?)mm m3 bolt, nut and locking washer.
Print Settings
Printer:
Da Vinci Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2mm Notes:
Supports will probably help. 0.2 or lower, but you will want to acetone/vapor polish to make it (more) food safe. Do all this at your own risk, I take no responsibility, etc. -
CTC Filament Guide 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a simple filament guide. This can be placed in front of the spool in order to keep the process simple.
Print Settings
Printer:
CTC Prusa I3 Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
.3mm Infill:
50% -
Monoprice Select Mini E3D 30mm single fan hotend and nozzle cooling 3D Print Model
Summary
I wanted to upgrade my MP select mini (V1) with an e3d hot end, but couldn’t find a holder for it that didn’t require an additional new fan. The closest I could find was Toolboxx’s upgrade for a single fan, but that still assumed I would be switching out the fan for a 40mm fan. So I did a simple remix.
All the 3D printed parts you need are included. You will need 2 M3x15mm screws and M3 bolts. -
UniStrut Zip Tie Attachment 3D Print Model
Summary
Screws: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-3-4-in-Lath-Sharp-Point-Screw-1-lb-Box-215-Pack-116102/205142852
Zip-Ties: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-800-Pack-8-in-Nylon-Cable-Ties/999971176 -
N-1 Starfighter 3D Print Model
Summary
The N-1 Starfighter, a sleek starfighter that’s eco friendly, the signature of the Naboo military, flies on a small base. -
ABSFCS-1.25 focuser 3D Print Model
Summary
ABSFCS-1.25″
Crayford focuser… The version .. 0.1b
will be upgraded
624zz bearing 6
bolts M4 25mm 4
bolts M3 30mm 4
nuts M3 4
bolt M4 70+mm 1 -
Office divider calendar hangers 3D Print Model
Summary
I needed a way to hang a large calendar from an office divider. I printed 2 of these with holes to put hooks into. You could also use Velcro. Created in Tinkercad
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8 Rafts:
Yes Supports:
No Resolution:
.15 Infill:
50%
Post-Printing -
CSGO Butterfly Knife Stand 3D Print Model
Summary
A small stand for my Butterfly Knife replica Tiger Tooth.
I know my print looks bad, but you can do it better 😀
BTW I added a clean one without the Name.
Enjoy
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
100 micron Infill:
14% -
Bundeswehr Besteck Halter 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a belt holster for german Bundeswehr cutlery. It snaps right in.
Print Settings
Printer:
Creality CR-10 Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
20% Notes:
Janbex White PLA 1.75 @ 190°C – 60°C Buildplate
Post-Printing
Free Snaps
The springy bits of the design may be stuck to the main body, so you have to cut them free.
To be able to print with no supports, the file is split into two parts, they have to be glued together afterwards. I have made very good experiences with using regular superglue. -
Celestron C8 Tripod Bolts 3D Print Model
Summary
These are customized “Smooth n’ Curvy” knobs designed for mounting my Celestron 8″ GPS telescope to its tripod. They use 3″ long 3/8″ bolts, leaving 1″ protruding from the knob. Depending on your printers dimensional accuracy, you may have to ream the hole out with a 3/8″ drill bit so you can press the bolt in. Recommend flipping the model so knob side is down and printing with supports.
Print Settings
Printer:
Monoprice Maker Select Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
.2mm Infill:
20% Notes:
Recommend printing with at least 3 walls so you can ream if needed with a 3/8″ drill bit. -
RepRap Snappy jhead platform triple extruder 3D Print Model
Summary
I took the jhead extruder mount and patterned it so that two more extruders can be added. I’m not 100% happy with how the extruders stick out, so the part will probably be modified after a little testing. -
Big Collection Of Random Band Logos 3 3D Print Model
Summary
This time it’s random band logos. I included the .SVG files I used to create the .STL files with. As always feel free to use this in anyway you please and if you come up with a great design please take all the credit. Just doing this to pass the time.
If you have a suggestion or request, leave it in the comments. I’ll get to it as fast as I can -
Prusa i4 Single Stepper Belt Driven Z Axis Modification 3D Print Model
Summary
Never one to just assemble the kit, here is one of the modifications I’m making to my Prusa i4 before I have it up and running.
Required parts:
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 30 Tooth Bore 8MM
2 x 608Z Flange Bearing
8 x M5 bolt
8 x T-Nut for 20×20 TSlot
4 x M3 bolts at least 20mm long
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 16 Without Teeth Bore 3MM
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 16 Tooth Bore 3MM
2 x Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut for 8mm Threaded Rod Lead Screws
1 x Bearing Block KFL08
1 x A 6R51M345060 GT2 Belt
Print Settings
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
15% Notes:
I didn’t add supports in the horizontal holes -
G-Clamp for replacing smartphone holder suction cup 3D Print Model
Summary
It is designed to replacing the suction cup of a smartphone holder.
You will need to remove the suction cup and use an M6 screw and bolt to fix it to the holder.
Please use the screw and clamp protector from the original design.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Ultimaker Printer:
Ultimaker 2 Extended Rafts:
Yes Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.15mm Infill:
20% Notes:
Notes:
Resolution and infill don’t matter much. -
Clarinet (Laser Cut) 3D Print Model
Summary
I had designed this clarinet for someone. I thought to share it also with the Thingiverse community. -
Starlight Xpress Filter Ring 36mm 3D Print Model
Summary
You can use it with the Starlight Xpress filter wheel inset for Ø 36 mm unmounted filters. It reduces reflexions.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.05 -
Wall Shelf support 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a shelf support in several sizes for actual use.
Because FDM 3D prints are (much) weaker in the Z-axis, the design was made to be printed horizontally. For this reason the diagonal brace has only the thickness necessary to be an effective support without interfering when mounting the support.
Print with a decent infill and shells this is actually quite strong.
Please use screws with FLAT heads, not the conical ones that are used for wood.
Conical screw tend to split the prints apart.
Screws to be uses are of the 4 mm variety with a 8 mm screw head.
Print Settings
Printer:
Mankati, Creatbot Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.15 Infill:
30%-90% Notes:
Print this in PLA, ABS, PETG or any other strong material.
Do NOT use materials like woodfill, bronzefill or similar materials if you need the parts to be strong. -
Royal Standard de Liege 3D Print Model
Summary
Le logo du Standard de Liège retravaillé sur Cinema 4D pour avoir une face arrondie et une autre face de maintien 🙂
Designed for Manon :* -
Creality Ender-2 Z-axis stabilizer mount v2 3D Print Model
Summary
New version.
This is a Z-axis leadscrew stabilizer for Creality Ender-2.
Print, drill out the main hole with a 8-9mm drill bit, it might be a good idea to use some grease as well when installing it. Before you tighten the screws, move the Z axis to the top to position the stabilizer correctly.
Print Settings
Printer:
Ender-2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.15 Infill:
100% Notes:
Use either 100% infill or lower infill and thick walls, I used 25% infill and 1.6mm walls -
Entry Plug (Evangelion) 3D Print Model
Summary
I redesigned my old entry plug and added a lot of the missing features and text the old one was lacking. This one should also print much better. My printer is currently out of order, so I can’t print it, but when I do I will post pictures. -
Speakon flange bracket (double) 3D Print Model
Summary
I needed to move my amp rack back a couple feet but the cables weren’t long enough, my solution was to move my speakon connectors from the back of the rack to the front as the individual speaker leads were easier to lengthen than the 8 conductor speakon cable.
The bracket was made in tinkercad in less than ten minutes but the printing took four hours.
It fits the 8 conductor speakon flanged outlet nicely.
The sound system was featured in this article, https://kioskfan.wordpress.com/2013/08/26/designing-a-crossover-exposes-more-faults-than-solutions/
Print Settings
Printer:
DMS DP5 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Infill:
22% Notes:
Cheap PLA, it’s just a bracket. -
Pottery Wheel Parts 3D Print Model
Summary
These are pottery wheel parts. If you a DIY type of guy, check out the video for additional parts and “how to” make the entire pottery wheel.
Parts List:
608zz skateboard bearings:https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Bearings-Double-Shielded-Silver/dp/B002BBGTK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503715409&sr=8-1&keywords=608zz+skateboard+bearings
12v Power Supply:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZZY28M/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=KsTjz&pf_rd_r=FJH1Z8RP89RMPC2E4V4H&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B009ZZY28M&pd_rd_w=S2aVT&pf_rd_i=12v+power+supply&pd_rd_r=ANXS2D9KED3Z223VQXK0&ie=UTF8&qid=1503715560&sr=1
The motor I found in a old printer. Here it is on ebay to give you an idea of what I took it out of:http://www.ebay.com/itm/C9029-60027-HP-Motor-OfficeJet-Pro-8500-Deskjet-9800-Range-/370638757036
Diode:
Found one in scrap electronicsCustom Section
-
EFX racer cowl 3D Print Model
Summary
I crash my EFX racer a lot and broke the plastic prop spinner.
Rather than make or buy another spinner, i made a cowl extension.
There is a good gap for motor cooling, but its not so big as to create heaps of drag.
There is tape on mine because the glue is still drying.
Print Settings
Printer:
Malyan M150 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
100% Notes:
Needs support around the bottom, for the lip. -
VW Tiguan air vent bar 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a common problem where the air vent bar breaks when a phone support is used on air vent ant the bar breaks.
I used 50% in fill to give it added strength and ABS to print.
Print Settings
Printer:
13 Mega anycubic Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.1mm Infill:
50% Notes:
This is a common problem where the air vent bar breaks when a phone support is used on air vent ant the bar breaks.
I used 50% in fill to give it added strength and ABS to print.Overview and Background
Due to my sons vent bar breaking, he designed replacement.
I printed it
Lesson Plan and Activity
Materials
ABS, 50% in fill for strength. -
26mm Reach-Around Fan Duct Adjusted for Volcano 3D Print Model
Summary
Remix (a rather janky one) of the 26mm Reach-Around Fan Duct from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2192480 to extend the ducts down 10mm for a volcano hotend. -
Coup Box Insert 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a one piece box insert for the Coup card game. It fits easily in the box and does not fall out when tipped. Overall dimensions are 143 x 102 x 29 mm.
The design was made from scratch using Sketchup but was heavily influenced by borderjs’s two piece design. Thanks for the great idea!
The original source file is included if you want to tinker with it.
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
.25 Infill:
20 Notes:
Support is not needed if printed flat. Infill and resolution are up to you.
How I Designed This
SketchUp
