Summary
Remixed from Qrome’s Maker Select spool holder.
I modified the design to include holes for screws that hold the halves together and added a base for use on the top of my enclosure.
Post-Printing
You print 4 of the spool sides and 2 of the base. You’ll need 4 skateboard bearings. Use M4 x 20 mm screws with a lock nut and washers (if you want) to hold the two sides together. Once the sides are assembled, glue them to the base. (I use a silicone glue that I could remove if I needed to.)
There is a spoolHolderPlate.stl if you want to print everything at once.
Category: 3D Print Models
Premium & 3D Print models ready to be 3d printed. 3D Print Models and Free 3D Print Models are available for download in several formats including .STL, .3DM, .OBJ, .3DS, .DAE, .SKP, .BLEND, .DWG, .DXF, .STEP and much more. If you’re in search of high-quality 3D printed assets, we have a huge library of 3d print models for any of your needs. Also you can visit 3D Models and All 3D Models category.
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Stable Spool Holder 3D Print Model
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Guitar Pick (B) 3D Print Model
Summary
I made this guitar pick hope you like it!!
Give feed back btw
Print setting
layer height 0.2
fill density 100%
platform brim -

Star Wars Mural V2 3D Print Model
Summary
I thought since I’ve had a lot of interest with my other Star Wars Mural I thought I’d make another one.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2699968
Print Settings
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
20% -

Minimal Look Chess (remix) 3D Print Model
Summary
I remixed this set to have large holes in the bottom to be able to add weight. I used hot glue and lead shot with a felt bottom. Got great reactions at the chess club! -

Retro Rubber Band Powered Rocket 3D Print Model
Summary
I have had this rubber band launched rocket for as long as I can remember… at least 35 years. Unlike today’s toys, aside from the occasional rubber band replacements, this thing has stood the test of time! I thought I would share this piece of nostalgia with all of you.
You can, of course, print your rocket in whatever color scheme you like, but the original was molded in red and white, as shown in the illustrations. The completed rocket is 245mm tall, including the grip. The main body itself is 195mm tall. What with the additions I’ve added to my Tevo Tarantula, I only have 170mm available on the Z axis. For this reason, I have provided two versions of the main rocket body. I highly suggest that you use the _1piece model if at all possible. If, like me, though, you can’t, you can print the _upper and _lower halves and glue them together.
ADDITIONAL PARTS NEEDED
You will need a few non-printed items to finish your model:
small snap swivel (the type used for fishing)
small parachute – if you don’t have a commercial parachute, this is an excellent tutorial on making one from a plastic bag
cotton string
rubber band, large
rubber band, mediumPrint Settings
Printer:
Tevo Tarantula
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2mm
Notes:
All pieces should be printed in the orientation presented in the STL files with [Supports Everywhere] enabled. The only exception to the need for support is the launcher and the baydoor_fin. Furthermore, due to their small footprint, you should use a fairly large [Brim] – 7mm or so – for the grip and the stabilizer_fin. I recommend 100% infill, just for strength. I tried slicing with less infills and, honestly, the added amount of filament required and the additional time needed was not significantly different enough to warrant using anything less than 100%. I printed with a layer height of 0.2mm, but I don’t think that it too critical.
Post-Printing
**ASSEMBLING THE ROCKET**
Assembly is pretty straight forward as you can see from the assembly diagrams.
Hook the holes in the grip over the pins in the ejector, making sure that the hook is on top.
Slide a rubber band over the ejector so that it is around the rear section. Pull the rubber band up and loop it around the hook on the grip, running the rubber band through the notch of the ejector. This will pull the ejector up at a 90° angle. Make sure that the rubber band is not too tight or the door won’t stay closed during the rocket’s ascent.
Keeping the ejector/grip assembly straight, slide both pieces into the body from the rear. Once in the body, the ejector will snap back to a 90° angle. Don’t worry about that right now.
Slide the stabilizer fin into the slot in the rear – narrow end forward and two lines on top – making sure that it goes through the grip and out the slot on the other side. You will need to make sure that once the fin is through, you have one one of the raised lines on top of the fin on either side of the body. This is what keeps the fin in place.
Glue the nose cone to the front of the rocket.
Push the bay door fin down on to it’s mount on the bay door – narrow end forward. There is a small bump on either side of the mount that will keep the fin in place. You can glue this fin on for added security, if you’d like.
Insert the pins on the inner font of the bay door into their associated holes in the main body, being careful as you spread the legs so as not to break them.
Tie a 5 or 6 inch long piece of cotton string to the bay door mount where indicated in the diagram.
Attach a parachute, via a snap swivel, to the ejector where indicated on the diagram.
Lightly fold and wrap the parachute using standard rocketry procedures and place it in the front section of the ejector. I have included a PDF explaining how to pack the chute if you need it.
Press the ejector / parachute down into the rocket and close the bay door. Take the string that you tied around the mount earlier and bring it back past the top tail fin. For storage, to keep the bay door closed, simply wrap the string around the grip and tie it off.**PREPARING THE LAUNCHER**
To prepare the launcher, you will need to cut your large rubber band so that you have one long piece.
Tie a knot in one end of the rubber band and slip the other end through one of the bottom holes on the launcher.
Thread the loose end of the band back through the top hole on the same side.
Pull the loose end through the top hole on the other side and back through the last bottom hole.
Tie a knot in the loose end of the rubber band.
Finally, pull the large loop so that the knot are firmly up against the plastic.**LAUNCHING YOUR ROCKET**
Now you are all set for the fun part! With your parachute loaded, and the bay door closed, make sure the string is hanging loosely. Pull the free end of the string back past the top fin and hold it against the side of the grip – thumb on one side and forefinger on the other. Loop the hook at the front of the rocket on the rubber band on the launcher. Holding the grip in one hand and the launcher in the other, pull back and aim upwards. Let go of the grip and watch your rocket soar upwards.
**HOW IT WORKS**
The wind resistance against the bay door will keep the door closed as the rocket soars upwards. As the rocket slows, the wind resistance forcing down on the door lessens. As soon as the rubber band inside is able to overcome the force of the air rushing past the fin, the ejector will spring outwards, opening the bay door and ejecting to parachute. As the rocket begins to fall, the air will grab the parachute and pop it open, allowing your rocket to gradually, and safely, drift back down to earth.
HAPPY FLIGHTS -

Wicked Witch – Rebecca Madder 3D Print Model
Summary
Rebecca Madder – Actress
inspired from picture. Thanks to Rebecca Madder
Print Settings
Printer:
Home Built
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.15
Infill:
8
Notes:
0.1 mm will be better with fine details -

Support Gopro 3030 3D Print Model
Summary
Bonjour,
Le même que l’original mais mesurant 32 mm de haut contre 37 à l’origine.
cordialement -

Modular Drawers – Different knob 3D Print Model
Summary
I did not like the way the knobs needed to be attached, so I designed this simple solution.
Tough I really need to say that O3D’s design is just awesome! I love these Drawers! -

Slim Wallet for 6 cards or under 3D Print Model
Summary
This is still a work in progress
Features:Rails to lead every cards6 possible card spots (1 that is outside of the case for either a magnetic bus card or money)
*A cap to close the wallet
Things needed:
1x 12mm M2 screw
If you have a longer M2 screw, just take two pliers and twist the screw untill it breaks (try until you reach 12mm)
This is a slim wallet inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1756637 “Slim Wallet V4”
I had issues using more then 4 cards inside the Slim Wallet V4 so I decided to create a wallet that would be perfect for 5 cards. I added rails to lead every cards. Since I take the bus often, there is a spot for either cash or a bus card.
The wallet is bigger then the Slim Wallet V4 and does not use any mechanism to pull up the cards. This is why every card spots are leveled +2mm everytime.
I am working on fixing some issues of this wallet such as1mm gap between the cap and frame after placing the screweasier removal of cards
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet a8
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Infill:
20 -

TBS Crossfire Immortal T and AX II Armattan Rooster Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
Mount utilizes TBS unify pro sma mount, AX II antenna, and Immortal T crossfire antenna. Extremely durable and low profile -

Phut Cluster puzzle 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a 3D printable version of Viktor Genel’s Phut Cluster puzzle. It is a coordinate-motion puzzle, meaning all the pieces have to move at the same time when assembling or disassembling. Print three total, and try to assemble them so all three pieces are intersecting and orthogonal. The “trick” setup is shown in the final picture, and should be enough of a hint to solve the puzzle.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Wanhao
Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1 mm
Infill:
20% -

koi fish 3D Print Model
Summary
This design requires supports while printing. It takes a few hours to remove all the supports with pliers, but the results are definitely worth it! -

Openlock Cavern Wall set 3D Print Model
Summary
Remixed a few cavern type walls to use with the Openlock system. These are a little thicker than some of the others but seem to work out okay. Only lengths I have put together are 1.5 blocks long, 2 blocks long and 4 blocks long. -

Soccer Sports Cone 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a very simple soccer cone design for soccor purposes or anything else. I designed this to mark out a race course for my Ofna Ultra LX2e and my Eachine Wizard Racing drone.
This should need no supports and the angle is around 70 degrees
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
any
Notes:
supports should not be needed but print what you prefer. -

PICKLE DICK 3D Model
While Rick and Morty isn’t exactly the most savory show on television, there’s a difference between dick jokes and actually putting Pickle Rick where the sun don’t shine… 😉
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Revised MPCNC Belt Mount/Tensioner 3D Print Model
Summary
I liked DodgeDerek’s redesign of the MPCNC Belt Mounts, but for some reason the tabs did not fit my prints of the corner blocks, so I made a new version adjusted to fit. I also adjusted the exit point of the belt for a more linear pull from the “ear” of the corner block. The other part I redesigned is the belt clip. I changed it to engage the belt all the way around the clip instead of just on the top and bottom. Finally, I modified the nut trap to accept a 4-40 nut instead of the metric size that was in the original.
I am using these on my functioning MPCNC and they have thus far worked out very well.
Print Settings
Printer:
XYZ DaVinci Jr. 1.0
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2mm layer height
Infill:
25%
Notes:
3 perimeters using PLA -

Piper 1 3D Printer assembly stl file 3D Print Model
Summary
This is full model STL file of Piper 1 printer. It is for viewing purposes only.
Piper 1 3D printer main project is at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2794632 -

Gear Coaster 3D Print Model
Summary
The gear coaser is 90mm in diameter.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
Prusa Mk2
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.25
Infill:
20%
Notes:
I printed it with the multi color option in PrusaControl. -

centryi4k /centriphone /centripro for yi4k 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a centriphone case for the yi4k+. Not 100% sure but I think it should also work with the yi4k and the yi4klite. And the camera fits in there with the original underwatercase.
The handle can be mounted for example on a underwater selfiestick for the gopro.
I highly recommend to print it like seen on the picture. There is a lot of force on it!
If your wires are 2 Meters long and you make one rotation per second you get about 7kg on it and easily 20kg wenn you make two rotations per second. So please first hang 20 kg at the handle to see whether it is stable enough! Use wires which can at least holt 7kg each (3*7kg=21kg). You will probably never make 2 rotations per second, but safty first!
Have fun!
PS: And of course it is just a copy of this one, but fixed for the yi4k: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1391102First try
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Kossel XL / Ultibots D300VS Corner Brace 3D Print Model
Summary
Deltas can be wobbly beasts, so I’ve made this bracket to keep mine a bit more stable. There’s versions of these for Kossel and Kossel Mini already, but I couldn’t find one that fit my Ultibots D300VS so I went ahead and made this.
There’s versions for M3, M4, and M5 hardware, and printable drop in or slide in T nuts to mount the bracket as well.
You don’t need to bolt in all the mounting holes! I put in lots of holes so there would be lots of options in attaching the bracket to the frame.
Sketchup source file included.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Notes:
You don’t need a lot of infill on this, just good perimeters. I printed mine at 30% and 1.2mm (3 layers) of perimeter, and 1mm of top/bottom layers.
PLA is probably your best choice for these brackets as it’s stiffness is very good, and there’s not much heat to cause problems. -

Dried Tree 3D Model
High poly printable model of tree.Measure units are meters. The model is about 18.6 cm in height.There is two version of the model:1) Tree_01 contains 762650 faces2) Tree_02 contains 53382 facesAvailable formats : .blend, .stl, .fbx, .obj, 3ds.
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Ring the ACE of spades 3D Model
The model can be used for production, for casting and machining.STL model is ready for prototyping on CNC and 3D PrintingHigh quality modelweight in gold 33.800 gramweight in gold silver 22.700 gramthe design was developed by me
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The Central decorative element 42 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 43 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 44 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 45 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 46 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 47 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 48 Free 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 49 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 50 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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Pull for IKEA Tupplur Blind 3D Print Model
Summary
The pull on our IKEA Tupplur shade broke the second day we had it. So I made a better one.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Wanhao
Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
Rafts:
Yes
Resolution:
.2
Infill:
20%
Notes:
the supports were a PIA to remove so I left them on the back side facing out the window.
How I Designed This
TinkerCAD -

POV Cell Phone Hat Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
Made this to help me take video from a first person perspective with my smartphone. It’s convenient because then I can immediately share the video to social media. It seems silly but I think it solved a problem so I dont care.
I designed it to work with one of these but it’ll probably work with anything similar:http://amzn.to/2Ct4SJy -

Star Wars: Force Unleashed Jumptrooper Helmet Parts 3D Print Model
Summary
This is the helmet for the Force Unleashed Jumptrooper, it’s already sliced up into manageable parts for a printer. I’m currently printing these out, but if you have any issues please feel free to contact me. -

GalaxyS8_Holder 3D Print Model
Summary
-this is a smartphone-holder for Samsung Galaxy S8 !!without recess for the charging cable!! (maybe also suitable for other smartphone)
-Slot is 8.4mm (0,330709 inch)
-dimensions: 50mm x 50mm x 50mm (1,9685 inch)
Print Settings
Printer:
Anycubic I3 Mega
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.1
Infill:
35
Notes:
-My settings for PLA 1.75mm (Picture: Cura settings) -

Horizontal filament spool holder 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a two-piece filament spool holder that requires a 6002 bearing. It is mainly intended to be installed on top of a delta printer that has a ‘roof’ with a mount for the bearing, feel free to attempt other ways to install.
Print Settings
Printer:
Kossel XL
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter
Supports:
Doesn’t Matter
Resolution:
up to 0.32mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle
Infill:
10% or more
Notes:
The bearing hole is a tight 32mm, so a well tuned printer and extrusion is needed and still the fit is tight. -

Hanging heart plaque 3D Print Model
Summary
Can hang up and use little rods on bottom to hag up keys, jewelry, and other small objects.
Name can be placed in middle of heart
Print Settings
Printer:
TEVO Tarantula
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Infill:
10% -

Subnautica Cyclops Submarine 3D Print Model
Summary
Decided to take a break from Star Wars ships, and built the Cyclops submarine form the survival game Subnautica. The Cyclops in-game in approximately 54.2 meters long x 12.6 meters wide x 14.2 meters high. It is the largest player controllable vehicle in the game at the moment. To build, the player must find and scan 3 Cyclops bridge fragments, 3 Cyclops hull fragments and 3 Cyclops engine fragment. A Seamoth or Prawn suit can be held in a ventral docking bay. (A very small Seamoth is included in the file. It is to scale with the main Cyclops model.) -

Medal hanger volleyball 3D Model
Medal hanger – for printing on a 3d printer.in the archive:- files with the finished model (two full version .STL and .AMF format and two version .STL and .AMF format without a volleyball player)- divided model into 17 parts ( 7 .STL and 8 .AMF files) for for printing on a 3d printer (left part, right part, silhouette of a volleyball player, cap, central strip of the flag, the flag strip is lower and upper).
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The Central decorative element 39 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 40 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 41 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 31 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 32 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 33 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 34 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 35 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 36 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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The Central decorative element 37 3D Model
STL 3D model – the Central decorative elementThe model is ready for prototyping with CNC machining and 3D printing.
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Tape Cutter 3D Print Model
Summary
This was created as a way for me to measure and cut blue tape for my print bed accurately and minimize the waste. First you screw the two parts down to a piece of wood. Mount the cutter part a little shorter than your print bed dimensions. Then you stretch the tape from the cutter side to the measuring side, and then press down on the roller side of the cutter and it will cut the tape the desired length. See pictures if that doesn’t make sense. Please comment, and take pictures if you print this. Thanks.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
CR-10
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.2mm
Infill:
20%
Notes:
I would make your walls a little thicker in order to make the post strong enough to withstand pulling on the tape. This is also an all in one print, I found the support super easy to pull out from between the roller and the post, and it spins very easily.
How I Designed This
I designed this using sketchup. -

The Varnerized Prusa 1.0.0 3D Print Model
Summary
Winter of 2018, I created a Prusa i3 clone.
You can build this printer for $250, or less. I did, including the cost of a 1kg spool of ABS.
The frame was based off the Original Prusa MK3 frame, but fabricated from plywood laminations. I created and used router templates (and a flush trim bit) from the Prusa .dxf files.
The rest of the parts closely follow Tom Salanderer’s MK2 Clone “Dolly”, with some customizations for the parts I ordered from AliExpress.
My official github repo for this project is: https://github.com/bvarner/varnerized_prusa_i3
My marlin firmware repo is: https://github.com/bvarner/marlin
I’m getting what I consider absolutely ridiculously good results out of this $250 printer, when compared side-by-side to the same models printed off an Original MK2s.
My long-term goal is to iterate on this, and upgrade the electronics to build a true MK3 clone with Trinamic drivers at some point in the future. That though, will be another ‘thing’. 🙂
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
i3 MK2S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
20%
Notes:
3 Vertical Shells (Perimeters)
Use ABS or PETG. -

HP Desktop/wall/arm PC support 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a support for HP desktop/wall all in screen computer that I’designed because this computer not included ones to use it in a desktop. It is multiposition so you can tilt the computer as you need. You will need add a pen spring and a key ring to complete its functionality.
Print Settings
Printer:
TronXY X3
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.2
Infill:
5%
Notes:
Printed in ABS, bed 85°C Nozzle: 235°C first layer and 228°C others layers, aquanet spray to bed adhesion, cardboard box to cover the printer while printing. You can print in others materials if you want. -

Arduino pro micro case 3D Print Model
Summary
A case for the Arduino Pro Micro. Just hot glue the sides together.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
FlashForge
Printer:
Finder
Rafts:
Yes
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
Whatever
Infill:
WhateverPost-Printing
Put the arduino inside and hot glue the pieces together. One side is for wires and the other side is for a USB cable.













































