This is universal snail Fan duct with spherical ball and socket joint. Print one of the housings with one, two or three holes.Printing detailsFilament: Pet-GSpherical ball and socket joint:Nozzle diameter 0.6 mmLayer height 0.1 mmSpiral Vase Mode !Housing:Nozzle diameter 0.6 or 0.4 mmLayer height 0.1 or 0.2
Tag: Prusa
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Double 45 Prusa MK2/S heatbed cable cover for enclosures (The Viper) 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a heatbed cable cover for Original Prusa i3 MK2/S designed to work in IKEA lack enclosures. I really liked Neeper’s design and wanted to modify it just abit to better work in my enclosure. I also wanted to lose the zip-tie so I made a little cover for the back held together by two M3x12 bolts and 2 hex nuts. I modified the eyes to have more depth since printing my own so please let me know if you print this and have trouble getting it to fit. -
Prusa Lack Enclosure Door Handles for 20mm x 5mm x 2mm Magnets 3D Print Model
Summary
Using the source files from the Prusa Lack enclosure, I resized the magnet inserts for 20mm x 5mm x 2mm magnets, which were easier to find on eBay.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
i3 MK3
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Doesn’t Matter
Resolution:
0.15 mm
Infill:
20% -
Prusa MK3 3030 Extrusion Mounted Pi Camera 3D Print Model
Summary
I liked the ball joint flexibility of MoonDoggy’s pi cam design but didn’t want to attach it to the x-axis. So I modded jltx’s hard feet design to attach a ball joint and modded the original camera case to allow the cable to come out from the bottom.
To install first attach the base and bit to the extrusion securely as indicated on the hard feet design. This can be anywhere you like on the printer extrusions. Next insert the ball link into the base and twist it slightly, it should be a tight fit as I had to use pliers. The rest is the same instructions as the cam design. You can use the original camera back on the new camera front. I hid the cam ribbon cable under the printer for tidiness. -
Prusa I3 MK3 Build Volume Reminder 3D Print Model
Summary
Just thought I would print something to remind myself of my printers Build Volume 🙂
Held onto Frame with BluTak
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
i3 MK3
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
100%
Notes:
If you want to change the numbers, Goto Tinkercad – Upload .stl – click .stl – click Ungroup – click Text (numbers) – edit to your own Build Volume – when done select all objects (ctrl+A) – click group – click Export, and your done.
Use Settings that work for you. -
Reprap Guru Prusa Spool Holder 3D Print Model
Summary
I broke the spool holder that came with my printer, and couldn’t find a replacement that was both simple to print, and fit my printer. So I designed this one.
Print Settings
Printer:
Reprap Guru Prusa Clone
Rafts:
No
Resolution:
0.3mm
Infill:
as you wishHow I Designed This
Created using OpenSCAD -
The Varnerized Prusa 1.0.0 3D Print Model
Summary
Winter of 2018, I created a Prusa i3 clone.
You can build this printer for $250, or less. I did, including the cost of a 1kg spool of ABS.
The frame was based off the Original Prusa MK3 frame, but fabricated from plywood laminations. I created and used router templates (and a flush trim bit) from the Prusa .dxf files.
The rest of the parts closely follow Tom Salanderer’s MK2 Clone “Dolly”, with some customizations for the parts I ordered from AliExpress.
My official github repo for this project is: https://github.com/bvarner/varnerized_prusa_i3
My marlin firmware repo is: https://github.com/bvarner/marlin
I’m getting what I consider absolutely ridiculously good results out of this $250 printer, when compared side-by-side to the same models printed off an Original MK2s.
My long-term goal is to iterate on this, and upgrade the electronics to build a true MK3 clone with Trinamic drivers at some point in the future. That though, will be another ‘thing’. 🙂
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
i3 MK2S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
20%
Notes:
3 Vertical Shells (Perimeters)
Use ABS or PETG. -
Better Filament Holder for Prusa i3 3D Print Model
Summary
this is a better filament holder for your Prusa machine.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
Prusa Mk2
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter
Supports:
No
Resolution:
.25
Infill:
20-30% -
CTC Prusa i3 fan adapter 3D Print Model
Summary
This adapts the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1161013 to a CTC prusa -
Prusa Steel X axis with tensioner and 8mm leadscrew support 3D Print Model
Summary
This X axis for the Prusa steel frame features a convenient single screw belt tensioner and supports 8mm leadscrews.
You need some M3 screws and nuts to mount the leadscrew nuts in place, a M4 screw and nut for the tensioner and a M5 screw and nut for the toothed idler, I use a cheap aliexpress toothed idler with a M5 bore.
Prints without supports.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Steel Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
0.3-0.25 Infill:
25-30% -
Prusa i3 Mk2 Ergonomic Control Knob 3D Print Model
Summary
I wanted a better knob for the control panel on my Prusa i3 MK2, but none that I found on Thingiverse were quite what I wanted. I designed this version with two main advantages over others. First, it has a four-point star shape that comfortably accommodates your right thumb for navigation without looking away from the screen (with a recessed center area for clicking the current selection). And second, the back side has a flexible socket patterned after the original Prusa knob, which makes installation much easier than a simple hole on the back. In the sample shown, I changed filament near the end so that I’d have a contrasting ring in the center button area.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.15 Infill:
35% Notes:
Because this part is relatively small, I opted for much more infill than I normally use on larger items. The 35% infill provided plenty of support for the concentric rings at the top. A smaller infill percentage might work just fine, but I haven’t tried it.
Due to the fine detail on the first layer, I found it helpful to print layer 1 at half the speed of the normal, already slower first layer. Also, a layer of glue stick on the build platform helped the details stick well. Once the second layer started, I cranked the speed back up to 100%, and the printing was easy after that. -
CTC PRUSA i3 Pro B Bowden Drive with Autoleveling 3D Print Model
Summary
My CTC hotend broke and I was without a 3D printer. Luckily I am in the process of building a HEVO and therefore I had the mount, hotend, extruder, retainer and duct already on hand. By drilling two extra holes and removing a little plastic near the X endstop flag in the mount, I made it fit the CTC carriage perfectly. Again, since my printer was down, I didn’t design this in CAD and just modified the piece I had by hand and then created the STL for thingiverse so no guarantees that it will fit. I left a bridge in there for support that you will have to break out and I put in two mounting options; one way the way I mounted it by drilling holes, and another for mounting it with M3 brass fittings to lower the mount closer to the bed. The HEVO mount has the proximity probe spot already, so I figured I should add that sensor as well.
If you are ready for a double mod, keep reading…
Items Needed:
Soldering Iron
several connectors
connector wires (from breadboard)
Arduino IDE
an extra Arduino as ISP to update the bootloader on the CTC Aduino
Marlin firmware
BOM:1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/M12-4mm-detection-5VDC-NPN-NO-LJ12A3-4-Z-BX-5V-cylinder-inductive-proximity-sensor-switch/32553311139.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz
3D Printer Accessories V6 J-Head Hotend RepRap Extruder for 1.75mm Filament, Direct Feed or Bowden. w/ 0.4mm Nozzle, 12V fan, and 3ft PTFE Bowden Tube
ALPTAhttp://a.co/9PxYSl48.5″ x 8.5″ galvanized 28ga metal plate to place between the hotbed and glass plate. This ensures that the sensor is triggered properly. Without it you will need to either not use glass or you are going to be very close to the nozzle level. Ferrous metals are the best at triggering proximity sensors, that’s why I didn’t use aluminium.
8.5″ x 8.5″ x 0.880″ glass plate. I prefer to print on glass.
Extruder of your choice (e.g. find one on thingiverse)
ProcessPrepare and install your material for your heat bed. Cut the galvanized plate with some metal shears to size. IMPORTANT: make sure the metal does not short out any contacts on the heated bed. You need to cut around those areas!.
Get the glass plate from your a hardware store. They will cut it to size if you ask nicely. You need the corners angled to have room for the screw heads.
Prepare and install the J hotend and proximity sensor with the extruder mount, retainer and duct from the HEVO project.
Solder the 5V and Ground connections to the board. I chose to use add a connector for easy disconnect.
Make a backup of the original settings. These were mine:
15:07:46.286 : echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
15:07:46.286 : echo:Steps per unit:
15:07:46.287 : echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z2560.00 E105.00
15:07:46.287 : echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
15:07:46.287 : echo: M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z2.00 E45.00
15:07:46.287 : echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
15:07:46.287 : echo: M201 X1400 Y1400 Z100 E80000
15:07:46.287 : echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
15:07:46.287 : echo: M204 S1400.00 T5000.00
15:07:46.287 : echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
15:07:46.287 : echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X13.50 Z0.30 E5.00
15:07:46.287 : echo:Home offset (mm):
15:07:46.287 : echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
15:07:46.287 : echo:PID settings:
15:07:46.287 : echo: M301 P19.86 I1.00 D98.93Upgrade your bootloader. Here is how to do it:
Time to download, configure and install Marlin. Use the GEEETECH example in the examples folder as a base. I attached my Configuration.h file here for reference with auto leveling enabled: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4494314 . Using this config will consume 94% of the memory. So there is hardly anything left for additional features.
Last but not least make sure you adjust the z-axis in the LCD until you get the nozzle in the correct location (mine was -0.25). Then make sure you save your settings.
*ANOTHER BENEFIT of UPGRADING YOUR FIRMWARE**
The CTC is over-extruding (at least mine was). In Cura I had set the correction in the start script, but with the new firmware I changed the E stepper from 105 to 95 in the configuration.h, so no more start code fix needed! -
Prusa i3 spool holder arm 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a spool holder for a Prusa i3 that will hold a 1/2 to 3/4 dowel or pipe allowing you to add another spool as well as easily changing spools without removing the arms. I used a piece of PEX piping I had sitting around the house for mine.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.2 Infill:
20
How I Designed This
Designed in Fusion 360. -
Filament guide for Prusa Anet Geetech CTC printers 3D Print Model
Summary
This is my version of filament guide based on this one:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1240326
A larger pipe will keep more straight the filament at the end of the reel, when the loops are smaller.
Suitable for printers:
Prusa
Anet
Geetech
CTC printers
…and many models with a frame 5mm width.
Feel free to adapt the files to your needs.
Thank you so much for you comments, like, download and collecting!
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0,2 Infill:
100% Notes:
For better results, use cooling fan. -
Prusa I3 Mk2/S Filament guide and light holder 3D Print Model
Summary
I have been running into problems with new rolls where the filament would spring of and get tangled. I was going to print one of the many filament guides available, but decided to make this. I use a Yorkville music stand light to light up the build plate when printing. Its pretty bright for its size, and you can power it off a spare usb port on the raspberry pi (assuming you use one for octoprint, but any usb port will work). I use the light both for checking in remotely and for the time lapses I create with octoprint. I initially had the light clipped to the frame of the printer but wanted to bring the light arms more forward to take care of some shadows. the holes in the side allow tie wraps to keep the power cord out of the way.
The light I use can be found here: https://www.long-mcquade.com/12870/Band/Metronomes_Tuners_Stands/Yorkville_Sound/Dual_Music_Stand_Lite.htm -
Prusa Multimaterial upgrade heatsink PTFE cutting jig – 41mm 3D Print Model
Summary
A very simple jig to enable precisely 41mm of 4mm OD PTFE tubing to be cut to insert into the top of the MMU heatsink. Insert tubing all the way into the hole and cut parallel and flush with the wall at the entrance point.
Please note that this is not the only step required with this tubing. It must also be reamed and chamfered (official specs here). Also note that the inside diameter of this tubing is specified as 1.85-1.9mm, which is not the same as you will find on generic PTFE tubing.
Print Settings
Printer:
Original Prusa I3 MK2 MMU Rafts:
Yes Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
Doesn’t matter Notes:
Use a small brim and print vertically. I printed this with 4 perimeters. Insert tubing all the way to the end of the jig and wse a razor or utility knife blade and cut flush with vertical surface at entry point. -
MKS GEN L V1.0 Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s Case 3D Print Model
Summary
I edited using Fusion 360 and already printed for my self. I its work for you too.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk1 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
15 -
CTC Prusa Low friction spool holder 3D Print Model
Summary
for CTC prusa i3 5mm plywood frame
resolution 0.3mm -
Prusa I3 Single/Dual E3D Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
This collection of things provide a single or dual mount for E3D nozzle assemblies for the Prusa I3 printer.
Full details are provided in the encvlosed PDF document.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
FlashForge Printer:
Dreamer Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
20% -
Prusa Mini i3 Printable Frame 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a printable version of Prusa’s “Mini” version of the i3 printer frame and bed carriage. It is designed to be printed out of PLA (less warping) but you could do it out of any material you like.
You will need a LARGE print bed for this! It is designed to fit on the Creality3D CR-10 bed with no modifications.
You can download all of the files for the Mini i3 at https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/master/mini and build your own! -
Dial Indicator Mount for Prusa i3 3D Print Model
Summary
Could not find a good Dial indicator mount for Prusa i3 that would mach the one I bought from Amazon, so i created my own version. Apparently different models have different probe length. -
FLSUN Prusa i3 RAMPS Container 3D Print Model
Summary
I’m working on cleaning up my printer station and couldn’t find a container for my RAMPS board that I liked, so I’ve designed this one. I haven’t printed it yet so it most likely still needs tweaks. As soon as I finish printing my enclosure brackets I will be making this next.
I’m using an 80mm wide and 30mm deep fan for cooling the board.
The idea of the design is that the cables will come in through the large circle opening, can be wrapped around the pegs to shorten them, then run them through the gaps to the board itself. The fan cable is fed through the small hole in the corner of the fan guard, then through the hole in the lid. The latch on the right hand side is meant to go on first, then the one on the left (really not sure if that’s going to work or not).
Because I’m building an enclosure I didn’t design the mounts to attach to the frame of the printer but to the outside wall.
The only sections that should need support is on the fan guard depending on which side you print up, and possibly the latches on the container itself.
If anyone notices anything I got wrong, suggestions for changes, etc, please let me know! If you print one, let me know how it went! -
Toolholder for Orginal Prusa i3 MK2s 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a simple construction to organize your tools direct to the printer. It has space for a glue and a pliers. On the side you can hang your scraper.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
i3 MK2S Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
layer height 0.3 mm Infill:
20% -
Anycubic prusa i3 – left side motor fan support 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a 40mm fan support for the extruder motor.
With this design you can cool the motor and keep the hotend protected from the fan air flow.
You can screw the fan with the support to the motor (with M3 bolts) or you can use neodymium magnet (4mmx2mm) and insert them in the holes. This second option offer a better access to the filament when you have to change it.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
20-30% -
Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S Light Bracket 3D Print Model
Summary
I designed this light bar bracket in Fusion 360 for my i3 MK2S. it its a nice tight fit over the plastic end caps of the light bar but moves more freely once over the extruded aluminum. The light bar used is the following: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-11-8-in-Plug-in-Under-Cabinet-LED-Light-Bar/1000033647
The light is activated by waving your hand underneath. It is also dimmable if you hold your hand under the sensor. Once the desired brightness is achieved, move your hand.
Print Settings
Printer:
Reality CR10 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.3 mm Infill:
25% -
Laser Mount for Prusa i3 Rework X Carriage 3D Print Model
Summary
Mount for Laser (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/500mw-405NM-focusing-blue-purple-laser-module-engraving-with-TTL-control-laser-tube-diode-protective-googles/32562052620.html)
Compatible with the X Carriage from the Prusa i3 Rework – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616
Print Settings
Supports:
No Infill:
10% -
Prusa i4 Single Stepper Belt Driven Z Axis Modification 3D Print Model
Summary
Never one to just assemble the kit, here is one of the modifications I’m making to my Prusa i4 before I have it up and running.
Required parts:
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 30 Tooth Bore 8MM
2 x 608Z Flange Bearing
8 x M5 bolt
8 x T-Nut for 20×20 TSlot
4 x M3 bolts at least 20mm long
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 16 Without Teeth Bore 3MM
2 x GT2 Timing Gear Pulley 16 Tooth Bore 3MM
2 x Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut for 8mm Threaded Rod Lead Screws
1 x Bearing Block KFL08
1 x A 6R51M345060 GT2 Belt
Print Settings
Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2mm Infill:
15% Notes:
I didn’t add supports in the horizontal holes -
Filament spool holder for Geeetech Prusa i3 3D Print Model
Summary
This spool holder is almost vertical to minimize the constraints on the 3D printer frame.
As it use the white pipe delivered with the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B, it can hold 2 spools side by side. Filament samples will be also fit to this holder.
The various holes in the holder allow to block the filaments in order to recover them very quickly. You can also use these holes to stock your Allen wrenches or your gauge used to remove the plastic jam in the extruder.
You’ll need 4 screws 3 x 12 mm to assemble the bottom with the top parts of the right and left supports.
Print Settings
Printer:
Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
30% Notes:
Make sure that the front side of each arm is facing the heat bed in order to have a nice aspect on front of you when it is installed on your printer. -
Anet A8 (Prusa) Z axis synchronising gizmo, 608 bearing 3D Print Model
Summary
Modified for the 608 bearing. Changed the 2 pulleys to one pulley, and added .1 to the inner diameter, and swapped out the toothed pulley for deeper toothed one (by Grimlock_UK).
Print Settings
Printer:
Anet A8 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.2 Infill:
30 Notes:
See original post by FredGenius for instructions and tool to put belt together.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2350350 -
Dial Indicator Mount Prusa MK2 – modified 3D Print Model
Summary
some modification on the original design by slayer1551:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2308978
I liked the original design idea, but wanted it to be a bit different, namely:
turn the dial to face the front (!!)
center the hanging beam (which for some reason was offset)
reduce the hanging beam length – saving material, printing time and reducing torque on the print head
added some chamfer on the protruding tabs and on one side below for easier extraction from PEI print area
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
15% Notes:
you can probably print with even lower infill
Post-Printing
1 M6 bolt to secure the dial to the holder -
Prusa I3 Belt Holder for REPRAP.ME frame 3D Print Model
Summary
Modified original Prusa part form MK2 to accomodate trayhttp://www.reprap.me/prusai3blackacrylic.html
y-belt-holder-longer-2mm.stl for Black Version
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Doesn’t Matter Resolution:
0.1 Infill:
15 Notes:
Print on side with pins point up. -
Prusa MK2 Haribo 3030 Y Belt Tensioner 3D Print Model
Summary
Adjustable Y Belt Tensioner for the Prusa MK2 Haribo 3030 Edition, I am sure that it will work for other 3030 setups as well. It uses an M2 screw with an M3 square nut that comes with the Prusa kits.
This is based on the original design on Github so I am not sure who to give credit to for the original design.
I place custom supports in the space where the square nut will sit using S3D, not sure if you can print without supports it give it a try.
Print Settings
Printer:
Prusa MK2 Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
.20 – .30 Infill:
20% -
Tronxy P802M (Prusa i3) Filament Guide 3D Print Model
Summary
Simple filament guide for Tronxy P802M (Prusa i3 Clone).
May work with other printers. Location of mounting hole may require remix or drilling to fit. -
CTC Prusa i3 Pro B (E3D V6 Mount w/ Radial Fan mount) 3D Print Model
Summary
Created using TinkerCAD.
This mount was created to allow a 40mm radial fan to be attached to the front of the mount. The mount connects to the original carriage. It allows for a zip tie to be placed in order to hold all wiring.
Print Settings
Printer:
CTC Prusa I3 Rafts:
No Supports:
Yes Resolution:
.3mm Infill:
60% Notes:
Rotate top 180 degrees for the print. -
Anet a6 prusa i3 led plate holder 3D Print Model
Summary
I designed this for my anet a6 prusa i3 3d printer. Every time I was printing I needed a flashlight to see in detail what the printer was doing. At first I wanted to add lights to the frame but since the extrude is moving there was never a perfect spot without shadow. So I measured the aluminum extruder base and made a 3d model of it. Then designed something so it would fit the led plate I had. I think I found the same Led in the link below but i am not sure. For the costs it is worth trying. And if not you have to change the clamping part in acad yourself to make it fit to the different measurements of the new led plate. The file is made for a led plate of 47X20 mm.
The power leads are put together with the rest of the extruder cables and go to a switch. power is taken from the powersupply. The led plate will consume just minimal power so no worries if the powersupply can feed the led’s.
order the led plate here:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-Super-Bright-T10-18-LED-1210-SMD-3528-Car-Auto-Interior-Reading-Door-Light-Panel/32800244364.html?spm=2114.010208.3.68.267Quc&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10304_10082_10081_10177_10110_10136_10137_519_10111_10060_10112_10155_10113_10114_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_303_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_142_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=f5f04a42-0ce2-4926-bc45-6bfa0c134434&algo_expid=857e0932-25b8-43dd-b230-5caa9d3c3864-9&algo_pvid=857e0932-25b8-43dd-b230-5caa9d3c3864 -
LED Holder (PRUSA I3 MK2) 3D Print Model
LED light holder for Prusa I3 MK2. The opening is 19x19mm and I used an LED rail like this from ebay.
The original filament holder can still be mounted and dismounted while the light is in place. -
Prusa I3 MK2 Logitech C920 Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
Logitech C920 Mount for Original Prusa I3 MK2 / MK2S
Its a little modification from (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2283508) for mount the Logitech C920.
Required unmount the webcam for replace the standard support for this.
The result it’s amazing in terms of stability.
Demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RylwI2aTmnQ
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
50% Notes:
It is recommended to use ABS for the heat of the bed -
3D printer blowing 3D Model
Three-way blowing for a 3D printer. The nozzle has the correct aerodynamic geometry. He showed himself perfectly. Used on Anet A6 and Prusa i3 steel.
-
Prusa i3 Remix Multi-Hotend Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
I liked aaroncm’s minimal/simple hotend mount, I had been using it for a while.
But I want to use two hotends on it, so I measured the original model and got it close to the original in OpenSCAD.
Everything is square in my scad because I don’t know how to make rounded shapes that won’t deform their original size in OpenSCAD.
I designed this so the values are all in variables that someone can change.
There is also a setting to specify how many hotends you want. I only needed two, but it works past 10… I have no limit on it.
If there is any suggestions, or ways I can improve my program, please let me know. I’m a fluent programmer, but I’m a novice with OpenSCAD still.
I did not design this with a proximity sensor mount because I am using a modified rear one that attaches to the back of the i3 remix carriage. -
Extended Arms – Spool Holder for Prusa i3 MK2 – Hex Design – Toolless Mounting – Fast spool replacement 3D Print Model
Summary
I Just extended the Arms to fit a 52mm (wooden) Frame. Thanks to Martin Majewski for this fantastic design!
Print Settings
Printer:
Custom Prusa I3 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
0,1-0,3mm Infill:
20% Notes:
Grab the other Parts from the original design -
X-Axis Tensioner (Prusa) 3D Print Model
Summary
A belt tensioner for the x-axis of my Prusa clone. The improvement it provides can be seen here. Assembly requires M3 nuts and screws (I used extra parts from my printer).
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Clone Rafts:
Yes Supports:
No Resolution:
.1 mm -
Prusa i3 MK2 Clone Brass TR8 Nut Adapter 3D Print Model
Summary
This adapter will allow a brass TR8 nut, commonly supplied with cheap TR8 rod, to fit into the standard Prusa i3 MK2 X End parts. You will need to cut some material from the nut, so that the bolt holes in the standard parts (and adapter) line up. A file can be used to cut away the soft brass, quite quickly. The photo shows the nut and adapter in place. -
The Best Damn Prusa i3 MK2 Bed Camera Mount 3D Print Model
Summary
As many San Francisco Bay Arean makers know, we reach Ikea demo display levels of usability with our tiny living spaces. It’s sometimes tough build stuff and still have more than a hammock draped between two burning man art cars to sleep on.
For me, the perfect spot to locate my first printer was the closet because:
it was relatively draft-free
I could leave the light on for timelapse prints without annoying anyone
being surrounded by clothes it really dampens the screeching from these new electronical overlords
and the small chest o’drawers in there just collected random coins, lint, and automotive fuses and bulbs lifted from my trips to Pick-Your-Part that I’d emptied from my pockets onto the end of the day anyway #amiright ???
Unfortunately, since upgrading from my quaint Printrbot Simple Metal 1403 to the Original Prusa i3 MK2, the larger footprint makes it a veritable behemoth in there. It hangs off the end of the dresser so gets a corresponding larger share of snags, bumps, and bruises from being right in the middle of a very active area (the closet is home to my daily-used Dyson V6, broom, ironing board, clothes, shoes, Plex Media Server, etc). Because of this, I’ve broken the bed camera mount of 3 separate designs on it, including JPgxuAHFR22RQo’s and cocoknight’s. This afternoon I’d had enough…
<POPEYE>
That’s all I can stans — I CAN’T STANS NO MO !</POPEYE>
Ladies and gents, without further adieu I give you:
The Best Damn Prusa i3 MK2 Bed Camera Mount !
Nitty Gritty:
Doesn’t snap in two as if it were crafted from paper mâché like every other lightweight bed mount design I’ve tried
Minimal weight (only 5g for this part when printed in ABS, ~6g for PETG or PLA)
As close and tall as possible to the bed while still not interfering with the extruder stepper motor during homing — no more viewing your timelapse knife-edge right at the bed
Left-mounted, where it gosh-darn ought’be ! With luc_e’s over-engineered [4x M3 screws and nuts to hold in an RPi ? Really ? :] but sweet as August corn, Original Prusa MK2 style Octopi cover that mounts the RPi perfectly over the MK2’s MiniRAMBo enclosure, and along with Adafruit’s 24″ RPi camera CSI ribbon extension, allows the ribbon to slide along under the MK2’s aluminum Z frame. I’m even powering the RPi from 5v from a spare endstop pin off the Mini RAMBo – who has 3hrs to same-day Amazon’ yet another USB charger ?
No metal fasteners needed (the MK2 comes with an extra 12mm M3 screw to replace the stock 10mm one as part of the kit 😉
Part of its magic is its infill layout and settings (detailed below) but since I know what printer you’re using, I’ve even included gcode for the uninitiated among us (you know who you are 😉
It’s Skookum as Frig !
Enjoy !
-=dave
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
200 microns Infill:
11% Notes:
Slice with Slic3rPE with following adjustments:
Original Prusa i3 MK2 Colorprint printer profile settings
0.20mm NORMAL print profile settings
Solid top/bottom layers: 4/3
Seam position: rear
Fill density: 11%
Fill pattern: Grid
Combine infil every: 2
Solid infill every: 25
Fill angle: 0
Solid infill threshold area: 46
Print !
Gcode for ABS (tested), PETG, and PLA (untested) included for you lazy geniuses ! -
Prusa i3 Screw Mount Nozzle Hictop & Anet A8 Nozzle 3D Print Model
Summary
Screw mount cooling nozzle, a more permanent solution than the commonly available one which sticks into the fan using friction (which cracked my fan nose).
enjoy!
3dcalgary -
Left fanduc for prusa i3 L3K extruder & SimpleOne Hotend 3D Print Model
Summary
Left fanduct for L3K extruder with a Simple One hotend.
Small change of original part, just a little too small for me.
Ventilo de refroidissement d’impression pour le très bon extruder L3K équipé d’une hotend Simple One. Petite modification du modèle original qui est 4 à 5mm trop haut dans mon cas et qui souffle sur la hotend. -
Prusa i3 MK2 Y carriage printable bed 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a fully printable Y carriage plate for mounting your heated bed. I adapted the Prusa i3 MK2 dxf file and modified it so that you can bolt on the arms in order to make this a fully printed part rather than having to rely on cutting one out of wood or having one laser cut or machined for you. It is 10mm thick, and the legs go in the slots only one direction each so that you cant mix them up and they use 3mm screws to bolt down. I printed mine with cubic infill to give it some additional rigidity, but it’s a very solid piece once it’s complete.
I adapted this version to use 4 lm8uu bearings instead of the 3 that are called for in the plans. However if you want to modify it back to a 3 bearing design, i’m including the sketchup file itself for your reference. I may improve this design by making it a little thinner so it’s lighter. it comes in at about 159 grams. You can print this on a standard 200mm square build plate.
I also added additional 3mm holes for extra zip ties or screws for the bearings. Some of you like to use blocks so I gave plenty of options to tie them all down however you see fit.
May come back and add some lm8uu bearing brackets in the future if there is interes.
Print Settings
Printer:
Wilson II reprap mjrice Rafts:
No Supports:
No Resolution:
.25 Infill:
30% Notes:
I printed this with .25mm layer height (since it’s a large unseen part, you dont need to do fine details on this) and a .5mm nozzle on my Wilson II printer. I used a top/bottom thickness of 1.5mm and a wall thickness of 2mm, but this is way overkill. you can use a 1mm thickness all around to speed up print time. as is, i printed it in about 8.5 hours.
Setting to 1mm wall/top/bottom thickness it drops to about 6.5 hour print at 60mm/sec.
Post-Printing
use 8x m3x12 cap head or pan screws with nuts on the other side to attach the legs to the body. Legs mate to their slots in only one direction flush and tight.
