This card holder can store up to 6 cards (credit cards, debit cards, business cards, etc.) and also has additional space for ID cards (up to 3 cards). It is a compact pocket-size design. Not recommended for money because it has no clip to hold the bills inside. Also as it is 3d-printed, it has no protection against magnetic fields.Final Dimensions:9.5 cm x 7.9 cm x 1.4 cm (around 3 3/4 in. x 3 1/16 in. x 9/16 in)It is designed in 2 parts that can be assembly together (with a little use of force) in the hinge. No glue needed.The hole in the base let you put your finger inside to pop out the cards. This improvement let you take your cards without the need to turn all the holder around. The same is for the hole in the ID side. This allows you to slide the card with your finger avoiding the need to turn around the holder.Recomendation:I got better results printing it with 3 layers of thickness and medium hollow fill. Can be printed at 0.3 mm but you get a smoother result at higher resolution (as 0.2mm or better), but that increases the print time. I got better results using ABS filament.Also I have printed (with better results) the base in horizontal layout but the id holder in vertical layout. This ensure that the orientation of the filament will be perpendicular to the force of the moving parts. This prevents that any of the parts of the hinge collapses.(When I printed both in the same layout or the hinge opening collapses or the middle pin collapses, causing the hinge to break.)File format:STL (Stereolithography)
Tag: PLA
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Robo R2 Smart 3D Printer 3D Model
Bee3dd is a team who making 3d model best quality, you don’t need worry when use our models. We take care to build the smallest detail in the model to ensure the best results. These things are not in others.Our slogan is: best quality – best price!+ We offer all electronics 3d model ( latest and oldest ). It is place where you can find anything about technology for your project ( earlier and faster than others )+ Every model we build goes through thorough Quality assessment both visual and technical to make sure the assets look realistic and the models are of the best quality.—————————–The model has a fully textured, detailed design that allows for close-up renders, and was originally modeled in 3ds Max 2012 and rendered with V-Ray. Fidelity is optimal up to a 2K render. Renders have no postprocessing.—————————–File Formats:+ 3ds Max 2012 + Vray 2.0 full setup lighting, camera+ 3ds Max 2012 standard+ Cinema 4D R12 standard ( materials and textures was setup )+ Maya 2012 standard ( materials and textures was setup )+ Lightwave 11 ( materials and textures was setup )+ FBX 2012+ OBJ 2012+ 3DS 2012—————————–Features:+ No isolated vertices+ No coincident vertices+ No coincident/coplanar faces+ Quads and Triangles only ( Clean edge flow, mostly quads, subdividable topology, no poles with more than 5 edges on the model, holding/support edges present to retain shape after subdivision )+ Models resolutions are optimized for polygon efficiency. (In 3ds Max, the Meshsmooth/Turbosmooth function can be used to increase mesh resolution if necessary.)+ Real-world scale ( We make 3d model from actual size and images reference. It is best for making video intro, marketing, animation, games… )+ Naming and Organization ( All geometry is contained in a single layer structure, with the layer having the same name as the product. )+ No special plugin needed to open scene.+ 3ds Max models are grouped for easy selection, and objects are logically named for ease of scene management.—————————–TEXTURES:- Textures highquality, enough for close-up render ( 2048-4096 pixels )- UVWs mapping with mixed: overlapping and non-overlapping- No texture paths referenced by the model. All texture paths were stripped from the model.—————————–Rate for ours models: We are required to assess the customer’s finished product with the best quality. Let us know your comments, we are very thankful for that!Thanks you,Best regardBee3dd team
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PP3DP UP Plus 2 PLA printing kit 3D Print Model
Summary
PP3DP UP Plus and UP Plus 2 are usually terrible with printing PLA. Three major issues with these printers are
The throat of the hotend gets too hot as heat creep up the steel tube and the PLA starts to bulge there and gets impossible to reliably extrude
Extruder stepper motor gets hot during print, both from the fact that it’s a puny motor doing a lot of work and because it’s used partially as a cooler for the cold part of the hot end. This heats up the PLA print and does not allow it to solidify properly, overhangs are crap and bridges are almost impossible.
PLA requires cooling, the “solution” originally is that hotend cooling duct has a “door” that let some of the air go into to part. The “solution” does not work.
To solve these problems I started by redesigning the extruder cooling. This solves both the issue of bulging inside the hotend and the problem with extruder getting too much heat from the hotend. This solves all the print issues with ABS, PETG, PC, Nylon.. but is not enough for PLA.
To tackle second and third problem this small project was created.
The fan duct goes over the stepper motor and allows for air to pass around the motor and exit back to cool the motor. Make sure you are extracting air and not pushing air in. The “cover” part will clip in to original top part on the UP Plus / UP Plus2 and will come behind the fun duct keeping it in place. As you can notice on both cover and duct there is 2 set of screw holes, 4 holes for the 40mm axial fan and 2 holes for the radial fan. If you do not need part cooling (ABS, PETG..) you mount 40mm axial fan here to extract air and you are golden.
If you do want to use part cooling fan (PLA requires it), I decided to recycle the air and push the air that we get from cooling the extruder motor into the part. This way the air is not “too cold” and will not stress neither the part nor the nozzle and it should (time will tell, so far so good) create PLA parts with less in-built stress. The part cooling duct houses a radial fan (no glue, hotsnot, silicone .. needed, just put it there) and screws trough the back of the cover into the duct.
I’m using custom firmware on the UP Plus2 so I’m controlling the fan trough there. On the top board you can see 3 3pin connectors (picture attached). The leftmost is 12V supply where your extruder cooler is connected. Middle (on the right side of the board the left connector) is also 12V supply and you can connect your fan here. If you are using only motor cooling (no part cooling) this is where you want to connect your fan. The third, rightmost connector is PWM-able. Originally this is where “light strip” is connected on some of these printers. If you have CPU upgrade with NXP chip to run smoothieware (I do) this is on port 1.18. If you are using original UP Studio software then probably check if you can change “light intensity” from software to change fan speed or just connect part cooling to a constant 12V, there’s usually never too much cooling for PLA so should work ok 😀
smoothieware config:
switch.fan.enable true
switch.fan.input_on_command M106
switch.fan.input_off_command M107
switch.fan.output_pin 1.18
switch.fan.output_type hwpwm
switch.fan.max_pwm 100
switch.fan.ignore_on_halt true
switch.fan.startup_state true
switch.fan.startup_value 0
switch.sw1.fail_safe_set_to 100
Print Settings
Printer:
self made Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
Yes Resolution:
0.2 – 0.3 Notes:
You want the part to be solid but everything is “thin” here so the infill itself is irrelevant (I use 0%) but you want
4top, 4bottom solid layers
5 perimeters
I printed this in ABS, some other high temp plastic should work (PETG should be great for cover for e.g.)
Do not print in PLA it will deform quickly
Post-Printing
Self adhesive aluminium tape is your friend 🙂
remove supports
take a piece of self adhesive aluminium tape and attach it over the top part of the part cooling duct “nozzle”. This way the heat from the heater block will be reflected and part will last much longer. Also the ABS oils and other dirt that exist in vapors around the heater block will be easier to wipe off.
if you feel the whole contraption is not “stiff” enough, you can use a small piece of tape and attach the duct to the top plastic piece housing the small pcb board.
How I Designed This
onshape source available
this whole project was heavily influenced by PrintMo’s work -
3DPrint Can Help (3D Can Help) 3D Print Model
Help associations fighting for the protection of animals by giving them a boost.
The approach is simple and everyone can help with its own means, mine: 3D printing.
The design that I am proposing for download is inspired by road signs, which can be found in Australia on the roadside, kangaroo or koala (protected in this country) being replaced here by the different animals on the farm or of the forest. This project is a call for the protection of all animals and the living in general!
How to support: by downloading the models, € 1 will be donated to associations fighting for the protection of animals or our beautiful planet.
Choice of material for printing: PLA, also called bioplastic, is the easiest and also “ecofriendly” way to print your necklace / key holder / …
Green 3D printing is increasingly accessible . Many companies are launching eco-friendly materials, we are admiring the German company Bio Inspiration, which launched its flexible filament Willowflex, a compostable filament with surprising characteristics. Some offer plastic waste collection and recycling systems such as the French company OWA. The choice of the raw material is therefore paramount in the elaboration of the creations that I propose. -
Exchange-A-Blade Utility Knife PLA Optimization 3D Print Model
Summary
This is a remix of the EAB utility blade.
Motivation:
I found that the original EAB when printed in PLA would have the locking mechanism snap off very easily. There was also no way to flush mount the screw and retaining nut.
Overview of changes:
Re-designed the locking mechanism for PLA. (Moved it over and reinforced the piece)
Modified the tolerances around the blade swivel for a 0.4mm hotend.
Reduced size of pocket clip.
Added inset holes for M3 screw and M3 nut.
Chamfered the blade cover.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa Printer:
Prusa Mk2 Rafts:
Doesn’t Matter Supports:
No Resolution:
0.2 Infill:
30 Notes:
Printing PLA at 0.2 resolution I had some difficulty with tolerances. This lead to the blade not moving smoothly. I would suggest 0.1 resolution, but it takes longer. At 0.1 resolution in Cura, it would have taken somewhere closer to 3-4 hours. At 0.2 resolution, it took 2:25 hours.
Post-Printing
Same as pre-remixed file. -
Changhe Z-11W 3D Model
Z11W Changhe Helicopter Light Attack China Chinese PLA Z11 Utility Scout Gunship Game Ecureuil CZ11W Z-11W Z-11 Z-11J Z11J CZ-11 AH11 AH 11 AH_11
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Bracket for LARP and COSPLAY
Bracket for larps and cosplay. It’s made from two pieces one have 15 half spheres on it to make good look and other one it’s flat for better comfort . you can easily print two identical parts and use it as diferent set.
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Moustache necklace
Moustache necklace is a funny piece of jewelery. You can use it at any time to disquise your apperance completely ☺
but remember with great mustache comes great responsibility
