Tag: levelling

  • Removable Bed Levelling Probes for Delta Printers 9.5mm effector 3D Print Model

    Removable Bed Levelling Probes for Delta Printers 9.5mm effector 3D Print Model

    Summary
    This is a remix/remake of Removable Bed Levelling Probes for Anycubic Kossel Linear designed by peaberry for 9.5mm effectors.
    Attached FreeCAD files.
    Print Settings
    Printer:
    prusa i3
    Rafts:
    No
    Supports:
    No
    Resolution:
    0.2
    Infill:
    30%

  • Snap-on CTC Dual bed levelling jig 3D Print Model

    Snap-on CTC Dual bed levelling jig 3D Print Model

    Summary
    Designed from scratch using the layout and coarse dimensions from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2460482
    OnShape link where you can edit to your custom specifications: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/28e0bcaa853c187d0624b81f/w/fd7acef5713bafce038c5cfe/e/7e7969d14473af0ccc5dd0ed
    Improvements:
    snaps on instead of using magnets or other means
    wider base for improved stability
    longer support for the indicator shaft
    offset on top to allow clearance for the indicator dial
    Instructions: printed laying on one side, PLA, infill 15%, no raft or support. The indicator shaft will deform a bit while printing, hence why it’s oversized.
    Design notes:
    Distance between rails is 70mm, rail diameter is 8mm, indicator shaft diameter is also 8mm. All holes have been oversized to 8.5-8.7mm, this is both to allow for printer tolerances and to make it easier to slide the “carriage”. You can edit the first two sketches to reduce the oversize, if you want a tighter setup.
    I currently have about 0.05mm slop/play with this setup, but my bed is warped almost 0.2mm, so the jig play doesn’t affect the readings so much.
    The chamfer on top is ugly but allows for better printing without supports.
    The snap-on distance is 0.7mm. You can increase it if you want a tighter fit, decrease it if the required force to snap is too high.
    Post-printing:
    The indicator should be a tight fit (“good enough”) but there is a hole for an M4 screw that’s designed to be tapped. There’s also an M4 nut retainer, if you don’t want to tap the hole. You can also probably just drive the screw in, without tapping,